PPA-CF vs PA6-CF?
Does anyone have experience printing PPA-CF and PA6-CF? I had read that “PPA-CF is 48% stronger” than PA6 if you get good layer adhesion, but I’m seeing conflicting info regarding impact resistance. Anyone have input who’s printed and used both?
Would PPA-CF be viable for printing a standard AR lower? Compared to modified variants like the Hoffman and Defiance?
No. Tensile strength of 7051 aluminum is still roughly 5X that of PPA-CF and even the much weaker 6061-T6 is still 3X stronger. Stoner would have had to over-design the lower by 3 - 5X (despite having weight reduction as a major goal) for an all-polymer MIL-SPEC lower to be viable (even with injection molding).
I have over 800rds through a PET-CF Defiance lower receiver, with brass inserts for the trigger assembly. They are 100% a viable option, and I’ve had 0 issues with cracking or breaking of the original I printed. I just wanted a one-piece design. The only part of the lower that gets worked and is prone to breaking is the buffer tube mount. There’s 0 “pressure” in an AR lower, to worry about “tensile strength” in that regard.
You may want to look into Middleton’s GAP: https://guncadindex.com/detail/Grandmas-Apple-Pie-GAP-v15:6
You buy the metal buffer tower from a parts vendor and print the lower. Comes with an ambi bolt catch and dovetails, as Middleton is wont to do. It’s not one-piece, but it slims the lower significantly since it takes force from a more manageable angle.
PPA-CF if you can print above 300c. Siraya Tech Fibreheart PPA-CF is some good stuff and not that expensive, around $60 for 1kg. I’ve had really good experience with this so far.
I’m insanely curious about how PPA-CF holds up as a suppressor. It seems like an ideal option.
Oh pick me, pick me!!!
HE’S HERE!
Hell yeah Brother lol
Oh yeah…Happy to be here!
I replied on Fosscadtoo to this same post lol
He’s back!!!
Im also on Reddit, but you can’t mention my PREVIOUS USERNAME or they may put 2 n 2 together lol. My name on Reddit is Bravo0016
Welcome back brother, I changed my name for lemmy cause fuck it, but lmk when you wanna send out that 3dp90 kit😉🤣 (i forgot about it just as quick as you did lol)
I Knew it! Welcome back brother 😀 🙏
Well, that didn’t take long… They’ve got it out for you man.
They for sure have it out for me, but Im going on 2 days now and still haven’t been Banned yet lol. It just has me limited because I don’t have much Karma yet and it takes Karma to comment or else it restricts me to one comment every 10 mins and if I try to in that length of time it will tell me to take a break lol.
I was confused then, I just tried looking up the Bravo0016 account earlier and it said the user has been banned.
I don’t know buddy, because its letting me post and comment and like stuff but doesn’t let people click on my name.
It’s definitely odd, but at least you can use the account.
Out of curiosity, how are you drying nylons and keeping them dried in storage? I’m about to pick up a P1S and have your settings saved, mainly looking at PA6-CF and PET-GF initially. I’ve seen lots of suggestions for drying, ranging from a goodwill airfryer up to a vacuum chamber. Im looking at the Sunlu E2 as it can reach 110C to be used for annealing as well, but $360 is a bit steep for it.
Also, with the finished PA6-CF being susceptible to moisture and losing some of its strength, do you ever seal it, or is it strong enough over time without needing to? I was wondering if cerakote would be a good choice for keeping moisture out, but I haven’t found much on the topic.
Crazy! I’ll be sure to stay quiet
Yeah it is, Dude and Reddit had it out for me. I created 4 back to back accounts and all were banned within an hour of creating until I had a buddy tell me to use a device that3 I haven’t used before and use a VPN and that worked. I still can’t comment much yet because I don’t have any Karma yet so it only allows for 1 comment every 10 mins or it flags me. But I will take some pics of a few builds I never posted on my old accounts and that will get me me some Karma once I start getting some likes. Reddit is set up to flag new accounts that comment and post a lot as spam so It limits you.
Damn! I think I read something about another person getting their account banned for sharing a discord link. Something crazy going on with all of this, but hey, you’re here now!
Thank you, glad to be back
Yes Sir…Thank you brother!!!
Ppa-CF all day. Anneal it in salt and it’ll be indestructible
If you’re annealing at the correct temperature, there’s no need to pack PPA-CF in salt. The annealing temperature is well below the un-annealed heat deflection temperature so you shouldn’t experience any warping or distortion.
It’s all in the data sheets. PA6-CF has significantly better impact strength - especially when it’s had a chance to absorb some moisture. That goes hand in hand with PPA being significantly stiffer.
PPA-CF has a little better tensile strength and layer adhesion, but they’re both good enough (assuming you can print hot enough) that the difference doesn’t matter much. Last but not least, PPA-CF has a little higher heat deflection temperature.
I guess I don’t really know what’s going on with the replies, but I’ll throw in my 2c. I’ve printed with both and the guns are all still functioning so I don’t have any strength problems with either one. One major difference is that PPA is less sensitive to humidity post print and doesn’t loose strength like PA6 does. I’m not sure that matters much since for almost all applications, both of them are strong enough.
I find PPA less sensitive to moisture before printing (but you still need it DRY), easier to get nice looking prints, and less prone to warping than PA6. So overall, I prefer PPA-CF but if you have PA6 dialed in well on your printer the practical difference is negligable.
What about PAHT-CF? Seems underrated. Tensile properties look good.
There’s no such thing :) PAHT is a marketing department invention, not an actual polymer. It’s usually either PA12 or PPA, but you need to check with the manufacturer to find out what you’re really getting.
I’m not an expert but comparing the strength tests and water absorption it seems like a potentially better option than PA6/12. I think I’ll test it with a print and use PET-CF for the non-heat sensitive parts.
I have exclusively printed all my builds in PPA-CF from sirayatech and they’re absolutely flawless. Super clean, super strong. Can’t go wrong once you get it dialed in. I have a few builds in PPS-CF CORE the stuff that sounds like metal when flicked and that was more for the novelty effect, but they’re also stupidly strong and high temp rated. I almost don’t want to use any other material outside of PPA-cf.
I’ll add to say I am very planning to reprint a leberV2 lower in a month or so using ppa-cf now that there are files to add AR grips.
