I have the files floating around on a drive somewhere, ill have to find them and ill re-upload when I have time.
- Posts
- 19
- Comments
- 63
- Joined
- 9 mo. ago
- Posts
- 19
- Comments
- 63
- Joined
- 9 mo. ago
3D2A @fosscad.io Thoughts on a quad stack coffin mag for the VZ61?
I have a buddy that picked up a VZ61 parts kit and as 20rd mags are the largest available for the 32 ACP variants, could a coffin style quad stack be viable.
The Sites Spectre for those familiar uses a quad stack that changes to a double stack within the magwell, and then feeds from a single stack. As it works reliably with 9mm and .40 I imagine the same concept would work with 32 ACP.
With that said quad stack magazines have heavy springs as the magazine is essentially seperated into 2 double stack mags internally so you end up with a split follower and a spring for each side.
Just wanted to see what everyone's thoughts are, I imagine this should be much more reliable than a drum while staying more compact. Have any of you guys attempted a quad stack design? If so what issues did you run into?
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com PAQ-4C IR Laser Teardown (1993-1996 Board Rev 0.0)
These are decommissioned full power units that had their lens busted with a screwdriver. Upon Dissasembly I found the outer lens cracked, the focusing lens was undamaged, but the laser diode's glass was busted. Despite this as you can see the unit still works. The PCB although we'll made doesnt seem too complex, the main IC appears to be a TLC251C but I still need to document voltages and currents around the board to ID a suitable replacement laser diode and all of the other components.
The end goal is a printable DIY full power laser that anyone can make for ~$100. Using the PCB layout I plan to have custom PCBs made to fit a more modern LAM format, reusing as much as possible from the original PAQ-4C. The turrets seem possible to print as well out of nylon, the only hurdle there is the spring which has indentations and prevents the turret from walking/provides the clicks you feel and hear.
Tools used for the teardown: Dremel with cut off wheel Drill Press Flat head screwdriver for
3D2A @fosscad.io 38mm Fin Stabilized Smoke Projectile - Current Prototype Model
Im designing a prototype smoke projectile for 38mm launchers. This is designed around using a 38mm 12" barrel for the Odin Launcher. The smoke composition will be TPA based. I'm going to attempt an IR/Thermal blocking smoke composition but if all else fails it will be the same TPA composition that Invention Incarnate uses.
Design Highlights:
- Von Kármán ogive nose cone, optimal for subsonic projectiles.
- Polygonal rifled integrated pusher using an extended 4.5" Mathetatics & AWCY? M.I.L.C shell, provides initial rotation.
- 6 curved folding fins, spring loaded for stabilization and further rotation during flight.
- 3D printed housing using a DIY phenolic liner for heat mitigation.
- Heli
3D2A @fosscad.io What's the strongest 37mm launcher design?
I'm planning to work on some DIY 37mm smoke grenades. The goal is to make a DIY printable/easily acquired 37mm screening device that outperforms the M713 40mm white smoke round.
As such packing as much smoke composition as possible within the round is ideal. These rounds will be fairly heavy as the smoke composition includes a resin for waterproofing them.
So im looking for opinions and personal experience from the community on which launcher design is the strongest and can handle launching heavy projectiles? I've seen the Odin, Nameless, Pipe Hitter, NT79, B.A.L.L.S, etc.. with most of them having DXF files for reinforcing the chamber. For designs that don't, I can modify them to do so. But I want to gage the community and see which platform I should start with.
3D2A @fosscad.io "Larger" Brace option now sailing
As was requested, the brace tailhook for my TX7 Remix has been doubled in size. The blade is now twice as thick, and the brace arm has had its geometry updated to match the right side of the tailhook's profile.
Included are .STL and .STEP files for both parts, so further modifications can be made on an individual basis.
This brace is a remix of @CrankFastle "CRANKS DROP STABLE SKELLY"
The brace arm has been changed to work with the folding hinge from @philphisher "PP MCXish 3D Printed Folding Brace"
As such, this brace should work on any chassis or lower with a rear Picatinny rail section.
https://odysee.com/@RenegadeSC:e/TX7-Remix-Large-Brace-Arm-And-Tailhook:b
3D2A @fosscad.io TX7 Remix BETA
3D2A @fosscad.io TX7 revamp is complete
Finally happy with it, I still need to tweak a few things (mainly tolerances) but this should be releasing within a few more days.
TX22 TX7 add-ons & Alterations:
- Modified Cranks Skelly Brace removed QD in rear, altered brace arm to work with MCXish, also cut out the section inline to the tailhook with matching geometry to be more comfortably braced
**- Modified MCXish Folding Adapt
3D2A @fosscad.io Printed MP7 Iron Sights for under $5
Began working on some MP7 iron sights last night, its taken all day making minor tweaks but I've got the first functional set made for roughly $5.
Fully functional windage and elevation adjustments as per the real steel. There's a hole in the front sight for a setscrew to adjust elevation when folded. The front sight post can be adjusted up and down for elevation by screwing it in and out, theres a printed detent that makes it tight enough to never move unless you purposely adjust it (shes on
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com Bending a solid in Fusion 360? Making an Unobtainium Zastava M70 Disconnector
My brother picked up a Zastava M70 pistol from a pawn shop, which appeared to be in great condition. However, upon firing it, he found out it had been touched by a GuNsMifF practicing the art of Bubba... The gun wouldn't fire after multiple trigger pulls, then the hammer dropped, and nothing happened. However, the round went off as he touched the slide. The culprit was a botched "trigger job" done to the disconnector, which actually snapped a section off when the round fired.
Unfortunately, there aren't many replacement parts available, so buying a new one is out of the question. I've only found 1 youtube video that even shows the part remotely well as most videos do not show the fire control group being dissasembled.
Once fully modeled, I'll 3d print some for him to test fit and file into shape as needed, so that I can tweak the design and then send it off to SCS. My issue is trying to bend a solid within Fusion 360. I've tried projecting the solid's geometry within a sketch and the
3D Printing @lemmy.ml Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?
cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/166583
This is a fairly new 0.4mm hardened nozzle in a Bambu P1S, the nozzle has maybe 100hrs on it with the only other filament being Overture PLA Pro Black. I switched to the Polymaker Metallic filament, got it calibrated, then printed 2 good parts. This handguard has since failed twice with the nozzle getting clogged. The longest part is the last print where it made it roughly 85% of the way and clogged before printing the threads...
This is my only spool of the material and I only have enough left for 1 more attempt, it's a nearly 18hr print. Is the Metallic glitter within the filament what's causing the clogs? Any tips or suggestions to avoid clogs with this material? Yesterday I took the extruder about and cleaned it well thinking that it could be contributing.
3D2A @fosscad.io Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?
This is a fairly new 0.4mm hardened nozzle in a Bambu P1S, the nozzle has maybe 100hrs on it with the only other filament being Overture PLA Pro Black. I switched to the Polymaker Metallic filament, got it calibrated, then printed 2 good parts. This handguard has since failed twice with the nozzle getting clogged. The longest part is the last print where it made it roughly 85% of the way and clogged before printing the threads...
This is my only spool of the material and I only have enough left for 1 more attempt, it's a nearly 18hr print. Is the Metallic glitter within the filament what's causing the clogs? Any tips or suggestions to avoid clogs with this material? Yesterday I took the extruder about and cleaned it well thinking that it could be contributing.
Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF
First print after calibration using Siraya Tech PET-GF in FDE. Print came out nice and is surprisingly strong at only 25% gyroid infill. I used 8 walls with 6 top/bottom layers. Printed at 300C nozzle with 80C bed on a Bambu P1S using a Darkmoon CFX build plate and printing from a 60C dryer. 0.4mm nozzle at 0.16mm layer height. One nice benefit to this filament is it comes completely dry and ready to
Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com Finally got my support settings dialed in - TX22 Boomtube 22 Mag Extension
This is in Overture PLA Pro using 0.15mm layer height with a 0.1 fuzzy texture and 99% infill. It's 300BLKFDE's PA6-CF settings with a PLA Pro profile and modified support settings.
17hr print time, yes PLA can be printed much faster, but the increase in quality is worth it in my opinion.
Correction: It's the BoomTube 22 - https://odysee.com/@the_fly1ng_v1k1ng:9/BoomTube-22:5
Help & Support @forum.guncadindex.com HELP: Threaded hole printing too large/loose
Tested a print of a muzzle device after calibrating some PLA Pro. The print came out looking great. However, the 1/2x28 threads in the ID are very loose, so much that with minimal force, you can pull straight past them.
So, I've seen a few different ways to fix this, but I wanted to see what the community agrees to as the "best" practice to adhere to.
Do I adjust for shrinkage, add in additional tolerance in the modeled threads, or do something else entirely?
Bambu P1S
0.4mm Nozzle
0.16mm Layer Height
Overture PLA Pro
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com Are there any Mac 10 SS compatible frames?
I've seen the DB with a slip trip for the SS, but that uses M11/9 uppers. Are there any options for M10 uppers with an SS?
3D Printing @lemmy.ml Need some help with PETG on Bambu P1S
I've spent the last few days trying to get PETG to print on the P1S.
PLA and PLA Pro printed great with no change to settings and just using the default 0.4 nozzle 0.16mm optimized presets in Orca. Examples: https://imgur.com/a/lx7KzRA
PETG, on the other hand, has been a pain in the ass. The preset for PolyLite PETG failed on my first print miserably, so I aborted after the first few layers. I then attempted a flow rate test as it was under extruding, that test was a failure, and continued to fail until I increased the flow rate from 0.95 to 1.197. At this point, I adjusted it per pass 1 and 2 but was still having issues. I printed a temp tower and decided on a 255C first layer with 250C additional layers. Still no dice, so I looked for suggestions on YouTube. Found a guy swearing by increasing the temp to 279C on the P1S. I tried that, went through all filament calibration tests from flow rate, pressure advance, retraction, max flowrate, and VFA. Tests were looking good, so I trie
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com P1S Firmware Versions?
For those using a P1S, what are the pros/cons of various firmware versions? I've seen mentioned that some versions locked down more control over the printer, but I haven't seen mentioned what exactly it changed or what versions did so. I plan to just use the printer in LAN mode, so are there any benefits to updating the firmware, or should I just leave it as it shipped?
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com Are there any Gen 4 glock frames?
I know the FMDA and several others that use P80 parts are Gen 3, but are there any frames for Gen 4? Overall, what are the best options currently?
Just pulled the trigger on a P1S and got quite a few filaments to test. What's some other good projects I should start with?
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com Help me choose a printer | X1C vs P1S | What's your preferred filament?
Looking to finally make the jump from my old Ender 3 to a better printer, I've upgraded the Ender quite a lot but have run into multiple problems over the years with custom firmwares. During my last move, I snapped the SD card slot off the main board and have had issues getting the new one back up and running. With all of that said I'm ready to just buy once, cry once, and get back to printing.
The options I'm looking at are either the X1C or the P1S. I wanted to get opinions here, as from what I've found so far, the P1S seems to have the same print speed/quality, just minus the AI, and upgraded steel components. How capable is the P1S stock, and what upgrades, if any, would be recommended?
From what I've found, the AMS 2 seems to be the ideal choice over the OG AMS due to the drying function and more user-friendly design. It's $120 more for the AMS 2 combo than the AMS combo, so for those of you who have these setups, is the AMS 2 worth it?
Other than the printer selection, what ar
Search "Rotary Drum" on the sea. Upon looking at the files I have, your picture appears to be an updated version.