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RenegadeSC

@ RenegadeSC @forum.guncadindex.com

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19
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63
Joined
9 mo. ago

  • Printed MP7 Iron Sights for under $5

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  • Appreciate it, im still making progress but will likely wait until the full TX7 project is finished to release it all together. The rear peep sight may benefit from being drilled out just to get as clean of a hole as possible.

    Next I'll be designing an 87° "angled" folding grip modeled after the MP7. Im also opening up the front of the TX7 Chassis to allow for suppressor usage.

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  • You can get away with cheap LPKs but only if you understand how the glock FCG functions. The cruciform and connector can sometimes need adjusted with slight bends, or the housing may be out of spec and require adjusting.

    However for those that don't know those components and how they should interact they should definitely buy OEM and save themself the trouble and risk of an ND.

    As an example: The cruciform holds back your striker which is under spring pressure, bending that cruciform up and down very slightly changes the engagement of the striker, too much and it wont fire, too little and the striker can slip. Add onto that, many cheaper kits have weak springs, and the odds that the slipped striker could bypass the drop safety increases, which results in the gun going off in a holster or when dropped. Id highly suggest watching JohnnyGlocks videos for anyone interested as he's a true expert when it comes to glock triggers.

  • Replaceable Suppressor Wipes

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  • Possibly if you use stainless steel mesh as a reinforcing layer within the silicone. I used a silicone baffle in some smoke grenade designs to reduce flare up, however silicone alone wasnt enough and was being ripped apart and yetted from the canisters. Once I added stainless mesh used for screen doors it worked well. The problem is see with this, is the mesh would need a hole drilled through it which means the area of the silicone that would sheer away would still be left unsupported.

  • Fireworks igniter - grenade

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  • Absolutely, his mixes are by far the best DIY options out there. But serious warning, to be careful and never mix both fuel and oxidizer together mechanically. He just recently had a bad accident and blew his truck up by accidentally doing so. No these mixes arent as dangerous as synthesizing explosives, but an accident can still take your vision or leave you with chemical burns requiring skin grafts.

    All of that to say, just be careful and work with chemicals separately to avoid potential accidents.

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  • On top of the 0.4mm hardened nozzle, you'll also want the hardened extruder gears. They're cheap and keep your extruder gears from wearing out.

    You can make do with other build plates but if you dont want to worry about bed adhesion at all and plan to do prints with various engineering filaments I would highly recommend the DarkMoon CFX build plate. It's an actual carbon fiber weave encased in resin that sticks very well to Nylons, PET, ASA, and so on (it isnt great for PLA though, their Satin plate is great for that).

    300blkfde's settings are the go to for everything nylon, with some small changes it's great for everything from PA6-CF to PPS-CF.

    As for more advanced filaments like PPS, you can add a 33ohm resistor inline with the thermistor of a spare hardened nozzle. This tricks the P1S into thinking that the nozzle temp is lower than it is and allows the temp to go higher. But for this material you'll also need a chamber heater. There's many designs out there but expect the heater and power supply to cost around $80-$100 to fully build. Some other filaments can benefit from the chamber heater but PPS is the main one where it's actually required to print.

  • Bending a solid in Fusion 360? Making an Unobtainium Zastava M70 Disconnector

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  • Honestly that seems like the simpler way of doing it that I completely overlooked lol. I'll give it a try, appreciate it.

  • Suppressor Questions

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  • At the time a company called DinoPrecision (If im remembering correctly) made them, then you just had to drill them out. They shut down after the ATF cracked down. Im not sure if his patreon is still up but if so its worth the info within it, he had way more in depth videos and testing of nearly every design you could think of with expensive decibel readers. To my knowledge he never tested printed designs but that was before printed suppressors really became a viable option.

  • Suppressor Questions

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  • There's lots of good info on the YouTube channel SilencerStudent9381. He's not been active for the past 2 years after the ATF cracked down on suppressor kits, solvent traps, etc.. But his patreon was a gold mine of information. I would start there and get a good understanding of what baffle designs, materials, mounts, etc.. work best, and then look at the FTN series. The FTN is easily the best 3D printed can currently, so it would be a great example to base your design around.

    Ultimately it all depends on the caliber and fire schedule you need for your use case. If you want something lightweight and light duty for a bolt action, go titanium / PLA Pro / PA6-CF. If you want something full auto rated for hundreds of rounds in quick succession in 5.56/.308 go with 17-4 stainless but understand the added weight is the trade off. If just for a .22lr 6061 aluminum / PLA Pro will work fine.

    I made a form 1 .30 cal can based around the SureFire SOCOM762-RC2 a few years back. It was entirely 17-4 stainless using the YHM Kurz mount. Total cost of the build including the tax stamp was around $700 but the deminsions and weight was nearly identical. No it wasn't inconel, but the 17-4 has held up to 6 mags of 5.56 back to back with an FRT and sounds very pleasant at the shooters ear. I realize no 5.56 can is "hearing safe" but its comfortable without hearing protection unlike most commercial cans on the market. The internals comprised of a 2" blast chamber followed by a progressive stack of 8 60° baffles with decreasing spacing between them, and all baffles were single clipped. Unfortunately most of the big name vendors for "cups"(baffles undrilled) and "tubes"(suppressor body prethreaded for mounts and end caps) have all closed their doors or obtained their SOT and make actual suppressors now. There are a select few still in buisness though, subzerosupply is one for cups that you can get some baffle geometry from.

  • now you have a machine gun ho ho ho

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  • Any plans for an FRT to make use of that 3rd position? Looks awesome man great work as always.

  • Need help finding a booster

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  • Not possible with what you bought. That's a monocore baffle which in itself is considered a suppressor so be careful.. That can is designed to be a direct thread only, so you would need to design a 1/2x28 to 1/2x28 booster assembly and have it machined as I highly doubt it would hold up being 3d printed.

  • How do people find "solvent traps"?

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  • Most solvent traps aren't good for anything more than 22lr or a slow firing schedule of 9mm/5.56. If you want to form 1 something that can take some abuse, subzerosupply is one I've seen recommended as most "cup" supply shops closed their doors when the ATF started cracking down. 17-4 stainless is heavier than titanium but can handle much more heat for sustained FRT rifle fire. https://www.subzerosupply.com/Ice-Mountain-Cup-SS-1639_p_101.html

  • Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

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  • Thankfully and big props to polymaker, they gave me a coupon code to get another spool. I had $8 in credits to use and with the code I was able to order another 2 rolls for a whopping $0.20!

    For the next spools ill try drying the filament longer and drying while printing just to fully rule out any possibility of moisture being the culprit but ill also get the 0.6mm calibrated for the filament.

  • Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

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  • Would i need to recalibrate the filament though for a 0.6mm? I have enough to redo the handguard with maybe 20g left on the spool.

  • Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

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  • If it fails again in just saying screw it and going to do a 2 tone build lol. Sucks that ive wasted a good 1/3rd of a roll of the filament due to the clogs.

  • SVTR alloy, question on bullet ramp

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  • What's the "brace"?

  • Baby Barrett 22LR by Kaewon

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  • What is the thickness of the SCS bolt rim part? I only see the extractor listed at 2.5mm and the reinforced bolt face listed at 1.5mm. The bolt rim file isn't mentioned in the guide.

  • LPK vendors?

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  • Although RTB is $3 cheaper on the LPK, KTM has a lot of really cheap parts you can add on, like a 10 pack of gas rings for $5.

    Another 2 great site to look at for larger purchases is battlehawkarmory and lanbosarmory. They don't always have the cheapest price on smaller items but when looking for uppers, lowers, LAMs, optics, lights, etc.. I've personally saved hundreds over the years with them.

  • LPK vendors?

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  • Just checked and KMTactical seems to have the lowest price im finding. $28.99 complete LPK minus grip, shipping is $7.95

    Edit: Right to Bear is actually $3 cheaper with their BLACK25 code

  • First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF

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  • I have my printer in my bedroom so I've been trying to stay away from ABS and other filaments that aren't as safe to be breathing in. I plan to make a fume extractor though. How does their ABS compare to other brands?

  • First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF

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  • Yeah my bad, it's 210/250F or 100/120C depending on annealing method.