I was recommended it by another user and im glad they did, for the price its a great filament that has quite a bit of use cases. When annealed it can withstand 210-250F and per grok with 10 walls, 10 top/bottom layers, and 100% infill it should withstand 1-2 meter drops on hard surfaces with only scuffs. I'll be testing that part out when I design some Gen 1 NV housings. The common con I hear about this filament is that its brittle but it seems to have some serious strength so time will tell. One more upside is its low moisture absorption.
I just got a P1S, and while calibrating filaments, I decided to try 300blkFDE's settings with my filament profile for Overture PLA Pro. It prints slow, but the results are fantastic, beautiful surface finish, and strong layer adhesion. It may not be necessary to slow PLA down so much, but for something I want to be strong in PLA, I'll take the added print hours.
From the califlower test, I had a -0.1% skew. Fixed that and adjusted for shrinkage. Just printed another flashider, and it's much better now. Tight initially, but once worked back and forth, it threads on well. I imagine a tight fit is better than a loose fit.
I haven't tested tolerance yet. I'll be printing a cauliflower when I get home. I downloaded the file, so idk what tolerance they had baked into it or if it was a true 1/2×28 thread modeled in.
That's what I was worried about. It's on 1.6 out of the box, but im seeing that in order to use my AMS 2 Pro that it needs 1.8. Will Orca not work on LAN? I dont really feel like I need nor want everything I do going through Bambu services.
Appreciate the info, Im still entirely new to 90% of these materials as I only have experience with standard PLA and PETG. I just pulled the trigger on a P1S so let the learning curve begin.
Ended up getting the AMS 2 combo with hardened steel nozzles and hotends. Im gonna just look around for an air fryer at local thrift stores as the Sunlu E2 seems to be the only filament dryer that can reach 90C+ and $360 for it is a bit insane.
It's definitely odd, but at least you can use the account.
Out of curiosity, how are you drying nylons and keeping them dried in storage? I'm about to pick up a P1S and have your settings saved, mainly looking at PA6-CF and PET-GF initially. I've seen lots of suggestions for drying, ranging from a goodwill airfryer up to a vacuum chamber. Im looking at the Sunlu E2 as it can reach 110C to be used for annealing as well, but $360 is a bit steep for it.
Also, with the finished PA6-CF being susceptible to moisture and losing some of its strength, do you ever seal it, or is it strong enough over time without needing to? I was wondering if cerakote would be a good choice for keeping moisture out, but I haven't found much on the topic.
So is the micro Swiss the better option? The hardened steel options from Bambu labs seem to be the cheapest, followed by BTT with theirs that is quick change, with the micro Swiss being the most expensive with the diamond tips.
I was recommended it by another user and im glad they did, for the price its a great filament that has quite a bit of use cases. When annealed it can withstand 210-250F and per grok with 10 walls, 10 top/bottom layers, and 100% infill it should withstand 1-2 meter drops on hard surfaces with only scuffs. I'll be testing that part out when I design some Gen 1 NV housings. The common con I hear about this filament is that its brittle but it seems to have some serious strength so time will tell. One more upside is its low moisture absorption.