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RenegadeSC

@ RenegadeSC @forum.guncadindex.com

Posts
12
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42
Joined
3 mo. ago

  • 3D2A @fosscad.io
    RenegadeSC

    Printed MP7 Iron Sights for under $5

    Began working on some MP7 iron sights last night, its taken all day making minor tweaks but I've got the first functional set made for roughly $5.

    Fully functional windage and elevation adjustments as per the real steel. There's a hole in the front sight for a setscrew to adjust elevation when folded. The front sight post can be adjusted up and down for elevation by screwing it in and out, theres a printed detent that makes it tight enough to never move unless you purposely adjust it (shes on

  • Ensuring 3D-Printed Glock Reliability

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  • You can get away with cheap LPKs but only if you understand how the glock FCG functions. The cruciform and connector can sometimes need adjusted with slight bends, or the housing may be out of spec and require adjusting.

    However for those that don't know those components and how they should interact they should definitely buy OEM and save themself the trouble and risk of an ND.

    As an example: The cruciform holds back your striker which is under spring pressure, bending that cruciform up and down very slightly changes the engagement of the striker, too much and it wont fire, too little and the striker can slip. Add onto that, many cheaper kits have weak springs, and the odds that the slipped striker could bypass the drop safety increases, which results in the gun going off in a holster or when dropped. Id highly suggest watching JohnnyGlocks videos for anyone interested as he's a true expert when it comes to glock triggers.

  • Replaceable Suppressor Wipes

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  • Possibly if you use stainless steel mesh as a reinforcing layer within the silicone. I used a silicone baffle in some smoke grenade designs to reduce flare up, however silicone alone wasnt enough and was being ripped apart and yetted from the canisters. Once I added stainless mesh used for screen doors it worked well. The problem is see with this, is the mesh would need a hole drilled through it which means the area of the silicone that would sheer away would still be left unsupported.

  • Fireworks igniter - grenade

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  • Absolutely, his mixes are by far the best DIY options out there. But serious warning, to be careful and never mix both fuel and oxidizer together mechanically. He just recently had a bad accident and blew his truck up by accidentally doing so. No these mixes arent as dangerous as synthesizing explosives, but an accident can still take your vision or leave you with chemical burns requiring skin grafts.

    All of that to say, just be careful and work with chemicals separately to avoid potential accidents.

  • Modifications For Printing PA6-CF On Bambu Lab P1S

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  • On top of the 0.4mm hardened nozzle, you'll also want the hardened extruder gears. They're cheap and keep your extruder gears from wearing out.

    You can make do with other build plates but if you dont want to worry about bed adhesion at all and plan to do prints with various engineering filaments I would highly recommend the DarkMoon CFX build plate. It's an actual carbon fiber weave encased in resin that sticks very well to Nylons, PET, ASA, and so on (it isnt great for PLA though, their Satin plate is great for that).

    300blkfde's settings are the go to for everything nylon, with some small changes it's great for everything from PA6-CF to PPS-CF.

    As for more advanced filaments like PPS, you can add a 33ohm resistor inline with the thermistor of a spare hardened nozzle. This tricks the P1S into thinking that the nozzle temp is lower than it is and allows the temp to go higher. But for this material you'll also need a chamber heater. There's many designs out there but expect the heater and power supply to cost around $80-$100 to fully build. Some other filaments can benefit from the chamber heater but PPS is the main one where it's actually required to print.

  • Bending a solid in Fusion 360? Making an Unobtainium Zastava M70 Disconnector

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  • Honestly that seems like the simpler way of doing it that I completely overlooked lol. I'll give it a try, appreciate it.

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    Bending a solid in Fusion 360? Making an Unobtainium Zastava M70 Disconnector

    My brother picked up a Zastava M70 pistol from a pawn shop, which appeared to be in great condition. However, upon firing it, he found out it had been touched by a GuNsMifF practicing the art of Bubba... The gun wouldn't fire after multiple trigger pulls, then the hammer dropped, and nothing happened. However, the round went off as he touched the slide. The culprit was a botched "trigger job" done to the disconnector, which actually snapped a section off when the round fired.

    Unfortunately, there aren't many replacement parts available, so buying a new one is out of the question. I've only found 1 youtube video that even shows the part remotely well as most videos do not show the fire control group being dissasembled.

    Once fully modeled, I'll 3d print some for him to test fit and file into shape as needed, so that I can tweak the design and then send it off to SCS. My issue is trying to bend a solid within Fusion 360. I've tried projecting the solid's geometry within a sketch and the

  • Suppressor Questions

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  • At the time a company called DinoPrecision (If im remembering correctly) made them, then you just had to drill them out. They shut down after the ATF cracked down. Im not sure if his patreon is still up but if so its worth the info within it, he had way more in depth videos and testing of nearly every design you could think of with expensive decibel readers. To my knowledge he never tested printed designs but that was before printed suppressors really became a viable option.

  • Suppressor Questions

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  • There's lots of good info on the YouTube channel SilencerStudent9381. He's not been active for the past 2 years after the ATF cracked down on suppressor kits, solvent traps, etc.. But his patreon was a gold mine of information. I would start there and get a good understanding of what baffle designs, materials, mounts, etc.. work best, and then look at the FTN series. The FTN is easily the best 3D printed can currently, so it would be a great example to base your design around.

    Ultimately it all depends on the caliber and fire schedule you need for your use case. If you want something lightweight and light duty for a bolt action, go titanium / PLA Pro / PA6-CF. If you want something full auto rated for hundreds of rounds in quick succession in 5.56/.308 go with 17-4 stainless but understand the added weight is the trade off. If just for a .22lr 6061 aluminum / PLA Pro will work fine.

    I made a form 1 .30 cal can based around the SureFire SOCOM762-RC2 a few years back. It was entirely 17-4 stainless using the YHM Kurz mount. Total cost of the build including the tax stamp was around $700 but the deminsions and weight was nearly identical. No it wasn't inconel, but the 17-4 has held up to 6 mags of 5.56 back to back with an FRT and sounds very pleasant at the shooters ear. I realize no 5.56 can is "hearing safe" but its comfortable without hearing protection unlike most commercial cans on the market. The internals comprised of a 2" blast chamber followed by a progressive stack of 8 60° baffles with decreasing spacing between them, and all baffles were single clipped. Unfortunately most of the big name vendors for "cups"(baffles undrilled) and "tubes"(suppressor body prethreaded for mounts and end caps) have all closed their doors or obtained their SOT and make actual suppressors now. There are a select few still in buisness though, subzerosupply is one for cups that you can get some baffle geometry from.

  • now you have a machine gun ho ho ho

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  • Any plans for an FRT to make use of that 3rd position? Looks awesome man great work as always.

  • Need help finding a booster

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  • Not possible with what you bought. That's a monocore baffle which in itself is considered a suppressor so be careful.. That can is designed to be a direct thread only, so you would need to design a 1/2x28 to 1/2x28 booster assembly and have it machined as I highly doubt it would hold up being 3d printed.

  • How do people find "solvent traps"?

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  • Most solvent traps aren't good for anything more than 22lr or a slow firing schedule of 9mm/5.56. If you want to form 1 something that can take some abuse, subzerosupply is one I've seen recommended as most "cup" supply shops closed their doors when the ATF started cracking down. 17-4 stainless is heavier than titanium but can handle much more heat for sustained FRT rifle fire. https://www.subzerosupply.com/Ice-Mountain-Cup-SS-1639_p_101.html

  • Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

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  • Thankfully and big props to polymaker, they gave me a coupon code to get another spool. I had $8 in credits to use and with the code I was able to order another 2 rolls for a whopping $0.20!

    For the next spools ill try drying the filament longer and drying while printing just to fully rule out any possibility of moisture being the culprit but ill also get the 0.6mm calibrated for the filament.

  • Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

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  • Would i need to recalibrate the filament though for a 0.6mm? I have enough to redo the handguard with maybe 20g left on the spool.

  • Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

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  • If it fails again in just saying screw it and going to do a 2 tone build lol. Sucks that ive wasted a good 1/3rd of a roll of the filament due to the clogs.

  • 3D Printing @lemmy.ml
    RenegadeSC

    Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

    cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/166583

    This is a fairly new 0.4mm hardened nozzle in a Bambu P1S, the nozzle has maybe 100hrs on it with the only other filament being Overture PLA Pro Black. I switched to the Polymaker Metallic filament, got it calibrated, then printed 2 good parts. This handguard has since failed twice with the nozzle getting clogged. The longest part is the last print where it made it roughly 85% of the way and clogged before printing the threads...

    This is my only spool of the material and I only have enough left for 1 more attempt, it's a nearly 18hr print. Is the Metallic glitter within the filament what's causing the clogs? Any tips or suggestions to avoid clogs with this material? Yesterday I took the extruder about and cleaned it well thinking that it could be contributing.

  • 3D2A @fosscad.io
    RenegadeSC

    Polymaker PLA Pro Metallic Gold causing nozzle clogs?

    This is a fairly new 0.4mm hardened nozzle in a Bambu P1S, the nozzle has maybe 100hrs on it with the only other filament being Overture PLA Pro Black. I switched to the Polymaker Metallic filament, got it calibrated, then printed 2 good parts. This handguard has since failed twice with the nozzle getting clogged. The longest part is the last print where it made it roughly 85% of the way and clogged before printing the threads...

    This is my only spool of the material and I only have enough left for 1 more attempt, it's a nearly 18hr print. Is the Metallic glitter within the filament what's causing the clogs? Any tips or suggestions to avoid clogs with this material? Yesterday I took the extruder about and cleaned it well thinking that it could be contributing.

  • SVTR alloy, question on bullet ramp

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  • What's the "brace"?

  • Baby Barrett 22LR by Kaewon

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  • What is the thickness of the SCS bolt rim part? I only see the extractor listed at 2.5mm and the reinforced bolt face listed at 1.5mm. The bolt rim file isn't mentioned in the guide.

  • LPK vendors?

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  • Although RTB is $3 cheaper on the LPK, KTM has a lot of really cheap parts you can add on, like a 10 pack of gas rings for $5.

    Another 2 great site to look at for larger purchases is battlehawkarmory and lanbosarmory. They don't always have the cheapest price on smaller items but when looking for uppers, lowers, LAMs, optics, lights, etc.. I've personally saved hundreds over the years with them.

  • LPK vendors?

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  • Just checked and KMTactical seems to have the lowest price im finding. $28.99 complete LPK minus grip, shipping is $7.95

    Edit: Right to Bear is actually $3 cheaper with their BLACK25 code

  • First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF

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  • I have my printer in my bedroom so I've been trying to stay away from ABS and other filaments that aren't as safe to be breathing in. I plan to make a fume extractor though. How does their ABS compare to other brands?

  • First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF

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  • Yeah my bad, it's 210/250F or 100/120C depending on annealing method.

  • First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF

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  • I was recommended it by another user and im glad they did, for the price its a great filament that has quite a bit of use cases. When annealed it can withstand 210-250F and per grok with 10 walls, 10 top/bottom layers, and 100% infill it should withstand 1-2 meter drops on hard surfaces with only scuffs. I'll be testing that part out when I design some Gen 1 NV housings. The common con I hear about this filament is that its brittle but it seems to have some serious strength so time will tell. One more upside is its low moisture absorption.

  • Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    First print with Siraya Tech PET-GF

    First print after calibration using Siraya Tech PET-GF in FDE. Print came out nice and is surprisingly strong at only 25% gyroid infill. I used 8 walls with 6 top/bottom layers. Printed at 300C nozzle with 80C bed on a Bambu P1S using a Darkmoon CFX build plate and printing from a 60C dryer. 0.4mm nozzle at 0.16mm layer height. One nice benefit to this filament is it comes completely dry and ready to

  • Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    Finally got my support settings dialed in - TX22 Boomtube 22 Mag Extension

    This is in Overture PLA Pro using 0.15mm layer height with a 0.1 fuzzy texture and 99% infill. It's 300BLKFDE's PA6-CF settings with a PLA Pro profile and modified support settings.

    17hr print time, yes PLA can be printed much faster, but the increase in quality is worth it in my opinion.

    Correction: It's the BoomTube 22 - https://odysee.com/@the_fly1ng_v1k1ng:9/BoomTube-22:5

  • Help & Support @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    HELP: Threaded hole printing too large/loose

    Tested a print of a muzzle device after calibrating some PLA Pro. The print came out looking great. However, the 1/2x28 threads in the ID are very loose, so much that with minimal force, you can pull straight past them.

    So, I've seen a few different ways to fix this, but I wanted to see what the community agrees to as the "best" practice to adhere to.

    Do I adjust for shrinkage, add in additional tolerance in the modeled threads, or do something else entirely?

    Bambu P1S

    0.4mm Nozzle

    0.16mm Layer Height

    Overture PLA Pro

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    Are there any Mac 10 SS compatible frames?

    I've seen the DB with a slip trip for the SS, but that uses M11/9 uppers. Are there any options for M10 uppers with an SS?

  • 3D Printing @lemmy.ml
    RenegadeSC

    Need some help with PETG on Bambu P1S

    I've spent the last few days trying to get PETG to print on the P1S.

    PLA and PLA Pro printed great with no change to settings and just using the default 0.4 nozzle 0.16mm optimized presets in Orca. Examples: https://imgur.com/a/lx7KzRA

    PETG, on the other hand, has been a pain in the ass. The preset for PolyLite PETG failed on my first print miserably, so I aborted after the first few layers. I then attempted a flow rate test as it was under extruding, that test was a failure, and continued to fail until I increased the flow rate from 0.95 to 1.197. At this point, I adjusted it per pass 1 and 2 but was still having issues. I printed a temp tower and decided on a 255C first layer with 250C additional layers. Still no dice, so I looked for suggestions on YouTube. Found a guy swearing by increasing the temp to 279C on the P1S. I tried that, went through all filament calibration tests from flow rate, pressure advance, retraction, max flowrate, and VFA. Tests were looking good, so I trie

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    P1S Firmware Versions?

    For those using a P1S, what are the pros/cons of various firmware versions? I've seen mentioned that some versions locked down more control over the printer, but I haven't seen mentioned what exactly it changed or what versions did so. I plan to just use the printer in LAN mode, so are there any benefits to updating the firmware, or should I just leave it as it shipped?

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    Are there any Gen 4 glock frames?

    I know the FMDA and several others that use P80 parts are Gen 3, but are there any frames for Gen 4? Overall, what are the best options currently?

    Just pulled the trigger on a P1S and got quite a few filaments to test. What's some other good projects I should start with?

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    RenegadeSC

    Help me choose a printer | X1C vs P1S | What's your preferred filament?

    Looking to finally make the jump from my old Ender 3 to a better printer, I've upgraded the Ender quite a lot but have run into multiple problems over the years with custom firmwares. During my last move, I snapped the SD card slot off the main board and have had issues getting the new one back up and running. With all of that said I'm ready to just buy once, cry once, and get back to printing.

    The options I'm looking at are either the X1C or the P1S. I wanted to get opinions here, as from what I've found so far, the P1S seems to have the same print speed/quality, just minus the AI, and upgraded steel components. How capable is the P1S stock, and what upgrades, if any, would be recommended?

    From what I've found, the AMS 2 seems to be the ideal choice over the OG AMS due to the drying function and more user-friendly design. It's $120 more for the AMS 2 combo than the AMS combo, so for those of you who have these setups, is the AMS 2 worth it?

    Other than the printer selection, what ar