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rayv3n

@ rayv3n @forum.guncadindex.com

Posts
3
Comments
9
Joined
2 wk. ago

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    rayv3n

    Ensuring 3D-Printed Glock Reliability

    I'm looking to build a 3d-printed glock 19 as my first build. I was wondering if you guys had any tips on how to prevent malfunctions and ensure that it feeds properly and doesn't have any hiccups.

    My plan is printing rails-up to make sure everything fits with no issue and will of course calibrate the filament. Regarding the lower parts, how important is it to get an OEM LPK? Is it absolutely mandatory for reliability?

    For rails and a locking block, I plan on using Aves or any other reliable vendor. For the magazine, I'm gonna use a Magpul magazine.

    What about slide? I'd prefer not an OEM since aftermarket OEM glock slides cost almost as much as a glock itself. Do you guys have any suggestions on aftermarket slides that are reliable? I was thinking maybe a PSA dagger slide, or even an RXM slide, since they are both cross-compatible.

  • Finished testing PET-CF; it sucks

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  • That's good to know. I initially wanted to print PA6-CF, but was skeptical of longevity concerns. I also wouldn't say he "brain washed" me. I was looking into it and first looked on Bambu's website comparing the dry state and wet state, and the wet state bended significantly more than the dry one. I just assumed that would cause some sort of failure, especially since we're putting external parts into a printed frame.

  • Finished testing PET-CF; it sucks

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  • Wouldn't humidity cause any frame In PA to eventually suffer enough creep to just fail?

  • Favorite Sniper Rifle?

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  • Oh, it's not mine. It's just a photo I pulled off the web. I'd love to have one.

  • Featured

    January 1st is Here; Make a Fucking Suppressor

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  • As it's just a matter of time before the ATF cracks down on improvised suppressors, I wonder what they are going to restrict / regulate. I imagine probably thread adapters? Is there a possible future concern of them regulating thread adapters? I don't think so because thread adapters can be used for cars, which gives you plausible deniability in that regard. What do you guys think?

  • Suppressor Sunday Featuring the FTN.5 Suppressor Pack! - reddit repost

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  • Thanks for the reply. I'll probably look into trying PET-CF with the FTN.4 printed horizontally with reinforcement and see how that performs. I saw PSR's video and it looked like it held up pretty well. Especially with the tax reduction from $200 to $0, should be a pretty easy process.

  • Suppressor Sunday Featuring the FTN.5 Suppressor Pack! - reddit repost

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  • I'm looking to print PA6-CF soon, but I was looking at Bambu's comparison between PET-CF, PPA-CF, PPS-CF and PA6-CF and couldn't help but notice that PA6 is extremely effected by humidity. I live in a very humid environment, so I'm quite concerned about longevity of PA6-CF prints. I recently saw Hoffman Tactical's video on why not to print in PA, and the creep is a huge turn-off. Surprisingly, according to Bambu's tests, PET-CF is actually notably more heat-resistant than PA6, coming out at 205C, compared to PA6-CF at 186C. When PA6-CF is dry, it has 151MPa XY strength, but when it's absorbed moisture, it comes all the way down to 95 MPa. Same situation with stiffness as well. From 5460 MPa all the way down to 3560MPa when wet. I guess my question to you is, if a can is printed vertically in PA6-CF, would moisture be a possible point of failure? Big fan of your work and projects. I've also gone ahead and included some information about different types of engineering filaments to anyone interested.

  • Favorite Sniper Rifle?

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  • M40/M40A1

    It seems to be one of the favorable by the USMC based on what I read. Chambed in 7.62x51mm with an effective range of 800m.

  • Modifications For Printing PA6-CF On Bambu Lab P1S

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  • Hi, thank you very much for the reply. I thought there was something missing, and it was the hardened gears, so I'll be sure to pick those up and replace those. I do have some more follow up questions if you or someone else doesn't mind answering them:

    1. My p1s is in my closet where it prints, but I was wondering how safe this would be with moving up to filaments that have much more fumes than PLA. My idea is to use the enclosure and have an air filter in the closet, or next to the door. Would this be satisfactory? Should I change any preset fan settings in OrcaSlicer to mitigate the fumes?
    2. You say 300blkfde's settings are a go-to, but would I be able to just use the Fiberon PA6-CF preset in OrcaSlicer and just run through the calibration options? I prefer to do it myself to make sure there is no problems.
    3. I currently have the textured pei plate for my p1s, and was wondering when glue is absolutely necessary. I've only ever printed PLA+, but I've never had any adhesion issues, ever. Must I truly use glue or purchase that plate to ensure there is no issues? (Excuse any possible ignorance here.)
    4. I know the filament should absolutely be dried before use, but should it also be dried during printing? And if so, how hot should it be drying during printing?
    5. What precautions should I take when taking a new PA6-CF print off the plate? I've read that it could be harmful to your skin. Should I wear gloves and a respirator when first managing it? If this is true, what is needed to be done to the object to ensure it's safe to breathe next to and manage with no gloves?
    6. When annealing, does part fitment become affected? I've only ever printed PLA+, so I've never annealed or accounted for any shrinking, but all my PLA parts fit very well with no modifications.
  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    rayv3n

    Modifications For Printing PA6-CF On Bambu Lab P1S

    Hello, this is my first time posting, so apologies if I'm doing anything wrong here.

    What kind of modifications / changes are needed to ensure that the Bambu Lab P1S has no problems printing PA6-CF or more advanced filaments? It has a stainless steel nozzle already, which seems to have the heat resistance needed for advanced filaments, but that's not recommended for filaments that cause more wear from what I've read. My current idea is purchasing a 0.4mm hardened steel hotend from Bambu and installing that, but is there anything else needed?