Looking to finally make the jump from my old Ender 3 to a better printer, I’ve upgraded the Ender quite a lot but have run into multiple problems over the years with custom firmwares. During my last move, I snapped the SD card slot off the main board and have had issues getting the new one back up and running. With all of that said I’m ready to just buy once, cry once, and get back to printing.

The options I’m looking at are either the X1C or the P1S. I wanted to get opinions here, as from what I’ve found so far, the P1S seems to have the same print speed/quality, just minus the AI, and upgraded steel components. How capable is the P1S stock, and what upgrades, if any, would be recommended?

From what I’ve found, the AMS 2 seems to be the ideal choice over the OG AMS due to the drying function and more user-friendly design. It’s $120 more for the AMS 2 combo than the AMS combo, so for those of you who have these setups, is the AMS 2 worth it?

Other than the printer selection, what are your go-to filaments and brands? I’ve seen PPA-CF, PA6-CF, and PAHT-CF mentioned, but don’t really understand the pros and cons of each.

I was a long-time lurker on the Fosscad sub, but I am hoping to contribute moving forward.

  • PhilMeGroin
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    3 days ago

    P1S for me: all I did was swap to a hardened steel nozzle+gears, installed voxelpla detached motion feet instead of the solid rubber pads, switched to lan mode, and got a couple build plates from darkmoon(satin/cfx). I have a separate hs nozzle I wired a 33ohm resistor in-line to up nozzle temps as well, just haven’t installed it yet. I print from a polydryer with the printed 5% air exchanger mod+mesh plastic upgraded to SS window screen on the dryer, so I cant speak for the ams/2. Fiberon pa6/pet/pps

    • RenegadeSCOP
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      3 days ago

      Any recommendations on the nozzle and gears? Also, is there a reason to get both the satin and cfx build plates if the cfx can handle the long range of filament types?

      • PhilMeGroin
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        3 days ago

        I got bambu parts for mine, eventually I’d like a resistance modded black diamond hotend. Satin just gives a smooth effect on the surface that’s appealing for some parts, cfx is the grippiest shit I’ve ever seen with nylons so I use it for precarious angles or no warp allowed situations. I’ve taken to tree support cradle printing as well, so I smear some vision miner on the cfx to extra insurance. Pretty certain it’s just pva glue suspended in IPA