Skip Navigation

Posts
1
Comments
105
Joined
9 mo. ago

  • There's two kinds, the easy version uses 4 compression bushings for the takedown pin retention, the advanced version uses a DIY insert you make from mcmaster stock and retains the front pin in a stronger way but I have found the easy version to be beyond capable.

    The buffer tube is integrated with the stock, and the stock has steel pins that run through it, along with a fat bolt. The grip is integrated, there's nothing else to reinforce really. The original design, the monopoly, was made monolithically for this exact purpose. It's strong.

  • True that, if you have to ask, you probably don't need annealing.

  • I did a v1 defiance, I liked it very much but I wouldn't call it the go-to, definitely flimsier than a Hoffman lower. My favorite is the Bipoly, that gd lower is stiffer than any other printed lower I've tested.

  • FWIW, I purchased a few barrels about 12 months ago, it was as uneventful as any other transaction. Did you reach out to CA?

  • I've done two glock builds with aves rails, one dd19.2 in pa6-gf and one mp-17 in pla, both with aves rails, the front rails fit in snug every time.

    Have you done dimensional calibration using something like the calilantern? It gives you an object that you can print, which you measure at many different points to help produce a configuration that makes your printer output exactly what it should.

  • This is awesome :D

  • The video for the tube was pretty easy, just put gloves on, smear the entire outside of the tube walls with jbweld, and carefully install over the can, I like to put painters tape to keep the tube nice and clean.

    The video for the casting tape just consisted of rubbing resin all over and tightly wrapping casting tape around the can, adding more resin at each new layer.

  • I much prefer the blast shield simply because it's less twisting than a direct thread can, it feels stronger as the blast can is the first area taking all the muzzle pressure, and finally you get to have a nice muzzle device like a brake or flash hider. It feels like a more professional build.

  • Thank you! I wasn't aware that it was included in the mainstream drop. I appreciate it :)

  • Is there a specific adapter for this? I like how this blast shield looks, would be perfect.

  • Please do a plan b version of the castle blast shield, it will be no problem to make a new adapter for it.

  • I would shy away from PC-anything for an FTN.

    PLA for testing cans out, pa6-cf/gf for keepers.

  • Deleted

    Permanently Deleted

    Jump
  • fwiw, I don't epoxy the breek insert at all. The threads are so tight on the normal tolerances model that it works great. I was using pa6-gf though, it has a lot of friction.

  • It had everything I needed except the printed parts. I didn't even have to crimp any wires. The formbot kit was awesome.

  • The kit was around 700 from formbot, I put a Galileo extruder on and clicky klack door so cost was under 1k. It took me a month to build, just putting time in after work and on weekends.

  • Automotive work is fun but high stress and quite dirty. I prefer working on printers and building rifles, it's more relaxing.

    Voron's definitely worth it, 100% my favourite project to date.

  • Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com
    notsuspekt

    Voron goes brrr

    300blk bipoly with an ftn 4.5

  • I'm most partial to the bipoly, I'm not a fan of the set screw used for the SL-15's safety detent. I put in a good word for the defiance lower, that shit works great.

  • Wait there's a different lever? I used the standard one and it was kindof finnicky. My action is a bit weird, the CMMG RDB bolt/barrel.

  • Are you the real Lemon?

  • I second this but with the addition that you should use CMMG's RDB action and some kind of conversion mags. Keep your ar-15 lower and upper receiver, the only change is a bcg and a barrel and the mags.