Send me a message here or reddit or odysee or just post about it. If there's an issue with my design, I don't take it personally like other devs. Stuff gets rushed, shit happens.
Completely new design. If it's a remix I always label it as a remix.
Nothing is really compatible with anything else out there. There is pic rail options for the stocks/braces but the mounts onto the mp5/k are different. Even the trilug is slightly off spec to the actual one.
Layer adhesion and impact strength is generally weaker than pla. There are some abs/asa that are actually more than pla pro but it's dependent on a heated chamber. Because of the difficulty to print, it's usually not recommended along with the higher levels of toxic fumes and it just gets everything inside the printer dirty. I still do use it for temp resistant reasons but only if I really don't want cf/gf texture and can't sand it because of the shape. Otherwise I'd typically just use nylons.
You'd have to check the readme for which designs it's fine to use on.
You'd need to be careful when boiling as the thinner areas will absorb water easier, oversaturate and expand more than other areas causing it to warp. I don't recommend boiling and neither does filament manufacturers or other commercial product manufacturers. The temp is also high enough to affect the crystalline structure and you may not be annealed properly anymore. A lot of people said to boil to anneal and moisture condition at the same time but that's not how it works. The oversaturation will not let it anneal properly.
Being submerged in water will also result in the same issue just slower since it's colder. It can be dunked but I wouldn't leave it in water too long. I've had dust covers on handguns warp within a few hours in room temp water.
You didn't put any sealant inside did you? It'll still absorb from there but takes longer since it would have to penetrate through. 2 weeks is usually the minimum but it won't fully saturate even in a humid environment for 2+ months.
There's not enough of a difference unless annealed and like other pla, it's prone to warping when annealing. You can try packing it in some medium but I wouldn't bother.
The average budget printer can print nylon for the past few years so you mean more along the lines of people running ancient machines rather than unupgraded. I'd say to just stick with pla until you upgrade to a modern machine. Centauri carbon is still on sale for $265.
Before I even read the whole post, I was going to say, your bolt is hitting it and causing it to break. But then you confirmed it. Guide says to file an angle on the bottom of the reinforcement plate or it will hit the feed ramp. It's also why you had to force the bolt closed. Nothing should be forced.
The other issue might be from not being calibrated. Every filament shrinks/expands differently. Nylons can shrink after annealing but expand after moisture conditioning so can be more tricky. CF/GF tend to be tighter inside and out because of the fibrous surface. Rossi also isn't known for their precision manufacturing so it may not fit perfectly. Holes are always made smaller to be drilled out since a loose hole is a lot more of an issue. They also never print nicely round. I'm sure every guy agrees tight holes are better than loose holes.
I always like to mention the wisp is considered an advanced build and requires advanced 3d printing skills and gunsmithing knowledge. Bolt actions are more difficult to build correctly than a blowback semi auto.
Speed and cooling are basic settings. If that is not easy enough, I don't think they should be printing. I'm not sure what other settings you also changed but anything above .24 is spaghetti on default settings. PA is even easier to remove as it's so brittle when dry.
Part of this is also personal preference in difficulty. I'm sure yours is super easy to remove. But I'd just prefer a cleaner surface even if it requires some bits that stick on and need to be removed.
It's simple really. Most say hot and slow for layer adhesion right? And with nylon, no fan. Well you want bad layer adhesion so you do the opposite. Turn fan on and speed up. Temp can't be changed for interface separately but those are enough to weaken it so it snaps off easy.
I'm on bambu and used others but it doesn't change no matter what printer it is. I'm sure you're fine with it otherwise you would change it but I'm just saying you could increase quality immensely without sacrificing ease of support removal.
You've probably delved deeper in settings than me considering .265. Most of my settings are default.
Someday someone will drop a turd in it