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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)J

justNPCthings

@ justNPCthings @forum.guncadindex.com

Posts
1
Comments
13
Joined
3 mo. ago

  • Lowest durable material possible for FTN4/5?

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  • okaayyyy

  • Lowest durable material possible for FTN4/5?

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  • Replaceable Suppressor Wipes

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  • It is easier and much more cost effective to just get a neoprene sheet and cut the wipes out yourself.

  • Modifications For Printing PA6-CF On Bambu Lab P1S

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  • Glue is necessary with nylons on the textured pei bed. It will curl up and break away instantly without it. I bare hand cf nylons and my skin is fine. I feed from an ams with dessicant to keep it dry during print. Annealing is a hot button topic and not always necessary.

  • Sales to ca

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  • whats wrong with maf?

  • Sales to ca

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  • MAF arms

  • Ok boomer by Kaewon

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  • Not yet, had to do some fitting and struggle to get that mainspring housing pin in. I believe it should be fine, comparing it to my steel 80 1911 I already made she hand cycles nice. fed her some snap caps

  • now you have a machine gun ho ho ho

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  • They're just impatient. I trust the process

  • Ok boomer by Kaewon

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  • oop my b

  • Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com
    justNPCthings

    Ok boomer by Kaewon

    Printed in Creality 612 CF. Way easier build than my steel frame lol. Sarco compensated parts kit

  • G Spot

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  • 3d nail or a finishing nail of sufficient girth that you cut down.

  • What temps do yall print polymaker pla pro at?

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  • hot and slow for best layer adhesion. you could run a temp tower to see what looks the best for you. I mostly use the bambu presets because if i start changing things i start finding problems. I've done 220/210 and it's fine. Every machine may see temperature slightly different so it's up to the end user to do proper tests

  • So what’s my best bet on cleaning this up?

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  • The sides nearest the base I've seen those artifacts recently. Too harsh of an overhang angle that supports seldom fix unless they are basically fusing with the model and you use a different material as the support. You can also change the print orientation to minimize the overhangs but with PLA+ you don't wanna deviate too much from the reccomended. With nylon you can do whatever you want because the layer adhesion is great.

  • So what’s my best bet on cleaning this up?

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  • There are prints you can use to calibrate the support interface distance and it's specific to your layer height. They are available in bambu software but I imagine you can use them in orca slicer for your specific printer. You can select each tower with a different distance. It's not a long print.