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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)J
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Comments
11
Joined
1 mo. ago

  • I am going to look into this. Thank you for the suggestion/s.

  • I mean I already have non printed ones. They coming for me no matter what. I am just here to enjoy the time I have with them and the newly printed ones:)

  • Have you considered a 9mm? I have been looking for a bolt/lever for 9mm forever. With a 5.45 bolt face, the only thing that would need to be reworked would be the ejector. Either way, this is a badass design. Looking forward to the release!

  • You stated not to be over-lubed in the channel. There shouldn't be any oil of any type in there. You can use dry lubricant, but it's not necessary. I don't have a DD26.2, but I have a 26x, and I had a bunch of light strikes. Found that the Cerakote on the slide went into the channel where the channel liner goes. It was so tight that the plastic was actually collapsing. I ended up using a dowel and lightly sanding the Cerakote, and then installed a new brass liner. Have had zero problems since. I have also had light strikes on other Glock-type pistols because of cheap aftermarket slide kits/trigger kits. Once I swapped Glock internals, I had no problems. Mixing and matching things isn't always the best thing. It's hard if you have all the aftermarket cheap crap inside because you have a whole can of worms to go through instead of just an aftermarket trigger or a spring to diagnose.

    My advice would be to clean the liner and pull it, and see if the spring is catching anywhere. Buy a new liner and install see if it helps. Looks like an after market slide. Tolerances can be off if its not a decent make. The spring should slide back and forth without any resistance when the firing pin is slid back and forth in the channel. If you have any oil/lube clean it with soap and water before assembling again.

  • As kopsis has said the design is so that most if not all free float. I do have some wiggle with the forend but it's nothing crazy. The longer the forearm the more wiggle I get. You are suppose to technically jb weld or glue them for more stability but I don't because I like to change the handguards around. There is a remix I believe on makerworld that has more rigid ribs on the handguards. On the shortest version it's pretty solid. Mid to long there's a lot less wobble. If I glued or JB welded it I am sure it would be fine.

  • That's amazing. I look forward to this release thanks for the info.

  • I have 2 of the chortex chassis with kaewons 10/22 receiver. Love the combo. Also the duplex folder version 1.2 by maverick is probably the best brace and is identical quality to strike industries braces. I have a few strike industries and a few Chinese knockoffs and my duplex folder is more sturdy. You can be all in for less than 150 bucks for a 10/22 this way.

  • Is this a single shot? Or is there a magazine of some sort?

  • how good are printed and sleeved barrels? Never have down one? I mostly only shoot suppressed. How good and reliable are the threads on a printed barrel? Love the design also love that you posted all the info here and not elsewhere! We need that to build this community up more!

  • I will have to look into it. Never heard of it. Do you know of any videos or anything with it?

  • Suppressors @forum.guncadindex.com
    jerebediah

    What 22 suppressor

    Looking for the best 22lr for sound wise. Prefer if it wasn't bigger than 1" diameter. Only a month left until free stamps. I prefer one that can be used with a thread adapter.