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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)F
Posts
2
Comments
7
Joined
3 mo. ago

  • Please read my post again. It's on purpose. I've been 3D printing for almost 20 years.

    I do run about 300C with a heated enclosure. 0.12 layer height and I run slower for maximum strength.

    I have PET-CF G26's and G19's too, printed horizontally and they're "fine" for sometimes thousands of rounds, until they're not. The layer adhesion sucks. It's only a matter of it getting hit the wrong way. I've dropped a G19 on the concrete and it split down the horizontal layers even though it was well over 1000 rounds without issue. The G26/G19 designs are much more robust designs for 3D printing. The G43 designs are way too thin and the Boomer also.

    For the G43X I've tried PET-CF, PET-GF, PA6-CF, PA6-CG, PLA, straight PA6. The PLA is the only one that holds together... until it gets hot. I use all the brands, Bambu, Polymaker, eSun, etc. There just isn't any way I can find to make that design work reliably in a 3D print.

    The Boomer was just my first attempt but I was already thinking the design is thinner than it could be. I'll be trying other materials but don't have much hope. I'll do aluminum or steel for my final version.

    All of the "filled" filaments, CF, GF, etc are way more weak than the base material. It's just what they are. The filler just helps prevent warping but everything else about it sucks.

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    foxbat

    Finished testing PET-CF; it sucks

    Bambu PET-CF printed with orientation to test layer strength. Results very similar to PA6-GF except PA6-GF breaks like glass, not on the layer lines. To be clear, it's possible to use better orientations and custom model changes to reinforce things, I don't consider that reliable though.

    The 43X got around 6 shots before splitting apart. This is the 6th attempt with various filaments and models of 43X, they all suck. Using Aves rails. Might have buy the real thing.

    The 1911 fired one single 45 and it's done. Machined the rail myself 6061. First attempt. It's too bad, this thing was so smooth.

  • By "legal crap" I mean read the actual document(s) from the DOJ case. It says NOTHING about them not being machine guns. It only says the machine gun rule won't be enforced under some circumstances eg. rarebreed.

    Oh hell, nobody listens to me, just watch Kurt's video. Search youtube for "Pyrrhic Victory at Best 2nd Amendment Lost" and skip to 3 minute mark.

  • If you go read all the legal crap you will see that FRTs are still officially considered machine guns but that the rule might not be enforced under some conditions. Which means they're not legal at all.

  • I always include STEP files.

    I think some people don't know that STEP is more useful. Other people "in the know" do it because they don't want others to be able to easily edit the design and release new or better versions.

  • For cheap ones I like the NBS kits and those guns are what I use most. At least I know what I'm getting. With that said, I've had no issues with any cheap kits from eBay but for my duty rated stuff I buy all OEM Glock parts which costs about 3x more than NBS. Realistically I'm not sure I'm gaining anything. Maybe one day someone will blueprint a cheap kit vs OEM and do metallurgical tests.

  • I can model it if you take some pictures and measurements. I sketched up a rough version without any regard for measurements or even the shape because I don't know what it actually looks like.

    A400 Catcher STEP