There is a test on YT. If I recall properly, the strength rises with smaller layers to around 0.15 mm, then start falling. Not significantly difference tho. Personally me printing 0.16 mostly. And 0.20 for non-critical parts.
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File Drops @forum.guncadindex.com Notachi update RC5
https://odysee.com/@clearview4851:e/notachi-update-rc4:e
RC5 updates:
- the firing pin design changed. No lathe required, but still recommended. the firing pin could be made of suitable 5mm 12.9 grade bolt. Refer to the Rouge-9 Documentation how to make firing pin wihout lathe.
- the firing pin retention changed as well. One printed part less, one 2mm pin more. the firing ping now can be changed / inspected without disassembling of half of the revolver.
- the breechplate for the printed only version changed. Small embossing added to help the cylinder rotation after the blank round fired.
- the hammer geometry changed little bit. Tho old may work.
- more optimisation for printing and post-print processing.
Reloading Ammo @forum.guncadindex.com Primers chemistry (need advice)
So, I'm working om my own 3d printed ammo with 3d printed primers. The toycaps compound works, umm, "acceptable" :-). The charge from two toycaps in one 3dp primer bangs pretty loud and strikes reliable. Even one toycap charge work surprisingly well. Then I've added shellac to the paper disc (for better storage) ,and things became worse. Most of "single charged" primers now require two strikes to fire.
Anyways, dealing with the toycaps is pretty boring and I'm moving next step. I took the "Homemade Primer Course" pdf (by W. Marshall Thompson PhD Revision Date: June 1, 2021) and tried to make the match head primer (MH1). I've added 1/3 of antimony sulfide (aka stibnite :-) to the match head compound, and nothing works. The primers not sets in the gun. The resulting compound burns very lazy from the lighter. I had partial success slamming the primers with the hammer and 2mm punch. But very lazy too, like "pshhshhshh" and a liitle smoke.
Next I did some search: may the modern matches be
Reloading Ammo @forum.guncadindex.com Idle talks about primers.
So, the plastic toycaps are useless as a primers. They are bad even for design testing. Easy pierced by the firing pin and often seize the pin, preventing further functioning of the system.
But.
What do you guys think about 3dp primers? I just started to play with, and they looks promising.
Printed of non-filled Nylon. Primer compound taken from 2x toycaps. Pressed with bamboo chopstick and closed with paper disk (from toycap as well).
The primer and the prime pocket have a small 1 degree reverse cone to preventing falling out of the primer.
Thickness of the primer's top is ~1.3mm.
This bangs pretty loud. Tho not all bangs from first strike, but I'm still working on the anvil displacement.
The firing pin makes very small notch at the primer face, no other damage noticed. So I think the caps could be reused several times.
I doubt this will work in a semi/auto systems. But in a bolters and revolvers could work.  metal handles parallel pliers like this: https://www.amazon.com/Beadsmith-Chain-Nose-Parallel-Plier/dp/B00XU22N6O
Print on side, STL file is pre-oriented. Use supports, remove "only on build plate". Use strong material. PPA-CF works well.
Use M6x16 hex headed bolt as a press. File the head smoothly.
Can be used as a bullet seating press.
this design is for FOSSA-9PAK-R. STEP files included, remix for your needs.
File Drops @forum.guncadindex.com FGC9mkII (AR15) grip inserts for testing rest
This is grip inserts for "testing-rest-not-ransom v2" testing device. Perhaps could work with original "Ransom Rest", but not tried. Included linear puller adapter and original FGC9 pistol grip. https://odysee.com/@clearview4851:e/Grip-inserts-AR15-FGC9mkII-for-testing-rest:7
File Drops @forum.guncadindex.com Notachi update (rc4)
https://odysee.com/@clearview4851:e/notachi-update-rc4:e
- default is printed only version. Steel parts and related the lower frame and the cylinder included for reference.
- printing and post-print processing optimizations.
- change tension spring pins positions (tension distance increased twise), now the hammer easely sets almost any primer. Drawback is that dowel nut is not anymore held by a M4 bolt. Instead the upper tension springs pin going trough it. This is very loose, and I recomment to put some JBwield there. but I'm using as is without any noticeable issues.
- hammer releasing changed (finally!) The trigger now is much easyer at break. Tho still quite heavy at pull.
- the lower tension springs pin changed to m3 bolt. This is workaround to the pin walking out. If your pin can stay at it's place - good for you. The frame covers without bolt head and nut cutouts included.
- included grips inserts for the
Reloading Ammo @forum.guncadindex.com Yet another printed ammo. (fossa-9PAK-R)
Printed rounds for the 9PAK signaling revolvers. https://odysee.com/@clearview4851:e/fossa-9pak-r:a
File Drops @forum.guncadindex.com Testing rest "Not Ransom" update.
V2 of the "testing-rest-not-ransom". Now with the linear trigger puller. Also added bowden cable pulling lever.
https://odysee.com/@clearview4851:e/testing-rest-not-ransom-v2:0
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com Notachi (update). 209's blank ammo issue resolved.
Hello! I think I've resolved the issue when 209 primers blank ammo jammed the cylinder. I just added 3mm ID restrictions to the chambers out channels, and the magic was done. Now the cap still pushed out of the primer body, but then the gas pushes the case rear as well, making a gap between the case and the cylinder. The gap is very small, I can't feel free play on cylinder, but is enough to rotate the cylinder free. Carbonization on the case confirms that :)
Help & Support @forum.guncadindex.com Post design and features.
Hello! Is it possible to:
- Post video?
- View attached images as slider?
- Search locally only (not on whole Lemmy )? Thanks!
General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com Notachi. Like the Ryno, but bigger.
well. One more attempt. So, this is Notachi. 5 charged DAO revolver. Linear trigger, CAM operated cylinder with parking position between chambers. Hammer with rebound utilizing two tension springs. Top breaking frame, but loading/unloading by one round a time. This because of internal sub-frame. By design the internal sub-frame is two 8mm steel plates braced with three 5mm bolts. Chiappa Rhino grips compatible.
I just post it on the Odysee, but should warn: THIS IS not tested, and should not be used with live ammo. This is mainly proof of concept, and posted only for engineering researches purpose. You've been warned. https://odysee.com/@clearview4851:e/notachi-rc1:9
more pics
![](https://forum.guncadindex.com/pictrs/image/5ebb2ddb-3394-439a-ab22-eb40c66
Lab blast oven for drying and annealing. And separate drybox for printing out of it. I'm using Fixdry NT1. Only printed 15mm lid riser for it to fit Polymaker's 2 / 3 kg spools.