So, I’m working om my own 3d printed ammo with 3d printed primers. The toycaps compound works, umm, “acceptable” :-). The charge from two toycaps in one 3dp primer bangs pretty loud and strikes reliable. Even one toycap charge work surprisingly well. Then I’ve added shellac to the paper disc (for better storage) ,and things became worse. Most of “single charged” primers now require two strikes to fire.

Anyways, dealing with the toycaps is pretty boring and I’m moving next step. I took the “Homemade Primer Course” pdf (by W. Marshall Thompson PhD Revision Date: June 1, 2021) and tried to make the match head primer (MH1). I’ve added 1/3 of antimony sulfide (aka stibnite :-) to the match head compound, and nothing works. The primers not sets in the gun. The resulting compound burns very lazy from the lighter. I had partial success slamming the primers with the hammer and 2mm punch. But very lazy too, like “pshhshhshh” and a liitle smoke.

Next I did some search: may the modern matches be different in my country? and found that match heads compound now is up to 30% contains various addons (glue, catalizers, inhibitors, etc…), so I opened the Spreadsheet and did some recalculations:

(the “base” here is the potassium chlorate. The “Target” - proportions of the H-48 primer from the “Homemade Primer Course” pdf). I’ve added 1/26 (3.8%) of sulfur, and 1/4 (24.5%) of stibnite. The resulting compound burns much better. But still not fires in the gun, tho I was able to fire every with the hammer and punch.

So, before I drop the “match head” way: may I calculated proportions wrong? I’m completely noob in chemistry.

If the issue is in the 30% of addons, and not avoidable, I’m going to move next step: obtain the pure potassium chlorate and try to make H-48 compound from the PDF.