I stuck a non threaded 5.5 inch chaszel liner in my hitch hiker. I just took a drill bit closely matching the od of the liner and enlarged the hole that way. Who cares if you've slightly abandoned concentricity it's rimfire, who cares if your barrels relative location migrated a fraction of a millimeter if it was self loading that may have mattered but with simple designs such as the hitch hiker simple solutions work just as well.
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If you sell all ten and decide to produce another batch I'll make you some crack and peel labels if you want to put in the effort for a more professional a look. Message me if you're interested
If your asking for printed suggestions I'm partial to the stocks that use 10~12mm carbon fiber tubes like the mcxish or this one https://guncadindex.com/detail/CF-Brace:b. Very sturdy if done right still decent if half assed.
Ended up buying a flash forge ad5x. Haven't taken it out of the box yet though.
Would you feel confident leaving it on a coat hanger hanging from the backseat "oh shit handles" during a sunny summer day? People in the hobby complain about their printed guns being mechanically compromised after a few hours in a car some of them reported it happening to examples that were concealed with no direct sunlight at alI. If your average standard cut ar500 plate with no spall coating weights 8.5 pounds that's 17 pounds (one front one back) add three 30 round mags that's 3 pounds(30 round ar mag loaded with 5.56 is roughly a pound) throw in a loaded g19 with two additional mags (loaded g19 is 31ounces we'll round to 32 to make it an even 2 pounds. The 2 magazines being 8.5 ounces a piece we'll say they're a pound when combined for simplicity.) You add that up you get 23 pounds which isn't much and will be evenly dispersed but I'm willing to bet 23 pounds combined with a sunny car interior would be enough to compromise the carriers in some fashion or another. Imagine how rough someone would be with the fasteners and cords/draw-strings when they're trying to put the carrier on in a real life situation when they don't have the time to remember to be gentle or to pull the drawstring at exactly the right angle that minimizes friction on the seemingly not at all reinforced holes they're routed to. There's a real risk of failure at the worse possible time. Throw in running so everything is bounding up and down then suppose you take a dive on concrete or some other surface that is gonna grab on pla and tpu I'm guessing? Think of all the scraping up against walls you'd do when stacking up or taking cover. There's nothing wrong with trying to design a printed alternative. There's also nothing wrong with charging money for the design assuming it can be built cheaper than store bought options but when the difference translates into life altering/ending injury most people arent gonna take that chance. You can write all this off as me being a bucket crab trying talk shit about something I have no part in. But nothing would make me happier to be proved wrong about all my concerns.
For the fair weather warrior. 😂 It's cool idea but I can't imagine this holding up in anything but perfectly mild temperatures.
If you want a bigger book bolt action project try Stubb's k98 replica
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My first 3D Printer should arrive in ~10 days, anything else I need to buy or get before it arrives?
Anycubic is a fine company they just have shitty consistency. I've owned a kobra pro, three kobra neos, three kobra2 neos and a kobra3 with the ace. I've loved all of them but the k3. They're trying to get too much speed from a bed slinger in my opinion. It may do okay printing light parts with enough surface area on the bed to not be thrown off but when you're printing functional stuff at 99 infill it has a tendency to launch shit mid print. Perhaps they've fixed all that with the newer models/iterations but It was disappointing enough I went back to my kobra2 neos.. I'd like to hear about your experience with the X when you get it assembled and printing. I can't decide whether I should take a chance on another printer or hoard k2 neo parts before that get difficult to locate.
Hell yeah. Thanks for the links. Makersmuse and teachingtech were my gotos back when I was starting out with 3d printing. It's a shame both of them live in cuckstrailia I feel like the teaching tech guy would make contributions as far reaching as Hoffman tactical if he could openly participate in the 3d2a hobby.
If the developer included a step file id import it into a model viewer or modeling software. That should allow you to view the model fully assembled and to manipulate the individual parts.
Im interested in hearing about your overall experience building the MP22. I just received an order from SCS end of March with a few sets of reinforcements for the mp22 along with other projects' reinforcements. I decided to build kaewons mp5 project first since it seems to be slightly more straight forward.
I believe It's the trunnion retainer. Possibly a result of the bolt contacting the barrel slightly when the bolt is completely forward combined with the extra leverage provided by occasional suppressor use. During the first go-round of assembly I had difficulty getting the trunnion to fit it's retainer so It was reprinted half a percent larger in the XY so that had some effect I imagine. I just recently reprinted it .25 percent smaller then original in all 3 axis (the z axis was resized to the thickness of the trunnion and 0.25 percent was subtracted from that) this time and fits snuggly now. Of course I won't know for sure until I put a few boxes through it to see how it does.
One more question; are there any brands I should keep an eye out for to either avoid or to look for ? Is there some hierarchy of intrinsic value or desirability of the different brands?
Thanks for the info. Im definitely gonna build from a parts kit. The last thing I want to deal with is questioning if I forgot to order a particular part when Its actually on the floor because i didn't see it fall out the box or something similar. If I don't build from a kit I have a feeling I'll be making more than one order with whomever I decide to buy parts from on account of my ignorance of the 1911 platform.😅
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I've built both ignoring the ability to load ramset by break action on the pd they're virtually the same other then the pen15 has two firing style options. I'd start with the no trigger variation of the pen 15 then work up to the PD when you are comfortable with your striker shaping. When I built the triggered version of the pen 15 it took two attempts before I was satisfied with how secure it was from bumps and drops when cocked from a lack of attention to mating surfaces
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For the pen15 the only additional material required that wouldn't be found in a cluttered garage/shed is the metal tubing you cut into a sleeve that acts as the chamber for the ramset. Which tbh you're gonna be buying this tube type for for any other .22 project to substitute for a barrel liner anyway so think of it as your admission ticket to the hobby given you'll have leftovers
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That makes sense. If .22 ram sets aren't hard to come by id make a pen15 and call it a day. One of those should be much easier to make,keep,shoot and if it were to come down to it explain away as a toy or fireworks launcher as opposed to a firearm. A solid 15mm whistle round will penetrate 1/4 inch plywood at ten feet with the green ramset.
To be honest I don't recall if it was pet-cf or pet-gf either. But If drying and steel nozzles is the only additional attention that's required to get extra heat resistance with the same or slightly better strength,hardness and rigidity I'll try some!
If the handguard for this build is printed I'd go for a metal sleeve if possible with holes in the handguard to allow for heat radiation even if I had to go larger in diameter by a tick. That's only if you're not using a metal handguard though.
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The rebel and rogue 9 aren't really based off the fgc9. a slightly more accurate statement is they stand on the shoulders of the fgc9 as a completely new iteration of the same goal with attention to lessons learned by previous designers.
Are you just interested in building an fgc9 because it's iconic or you're not in the US? If you're in the US and you just wanna try the hobby id recommend a Mac upper build like Mac Daddy or DB alloy that's enough to feel the accomplishment of a build without being so difficult to get a functional firearm you never wanna build anything else again. This stress will compound if have to wait all week to go to your favorite trash pile just to test your last tweak. If you're really confident then the ump build will provide the extra feeling if accomplishment with too much extra difficulty and it's a great shooting setup provided you get the barrel retainer right.
Yes I wish my other diy 22 builds were as easy as this one. Especially considering I blew through this project with no effort or care had no problems at ALL and my other builds I treat like rocket science yet they're fickle as fuck in the ignition department. With the big ass Chunky bolt you get from MAF you can ignite 22lrs and ramset first try with confidence