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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)B
Posts
6
Comments
54
Joined
3 mo. ago

  • I didn’t mean that you were brain washed, I meant that there are so many that have strayed away from nylon and think that pet-cf is the way to go due to Hoffman posting his video. Don’t get me wrong, Hoffman is a great developer. However, I don’t think he put much testing into his theory on this. Pet-cf is great for mags and accessories.

  • It’s good for adhesion, but it sucks for rigidity. I’ve had several core -cf parts fail and not a single ppa-cf .

  • See that’s where Hoffman has yall brain washed. No it won’t. It really takes heat and direct wetting to have that kind of failure.

  • Mine is still a work in progress as well, but it’s my area!!!!

  • I use ppa-cf all the time and I’ve also used core ppa-cf. You’re better off not using the core.

  • On the .4 nozzle they are all .5 except the top and outside. This is for .6 nozzle

  • Your loosing layer adhesion at anything lower than .15, but I do agree with you that pet-cf or gf sucks. It looks amazing when printed, but it doesn’t compare to pa-cf. So many people think that Hoffmans view on this stuff was the rising of Christ, but Hoffman was wrong and people can’t get over it. I really wish he would come out and recant his statement on pet-cf being better. Pa-cf works so good because of its elasticity, I’m sure you know this since you have been printing so long.

  • I personally don’t think it makes enough difference in our area.

  • Yeah change your line widths to .5 for all of them and you can go as low as .12 on your layer height. Happy printing!!!

  • Orca slicer has a lot of things wrong in there preset as well as about every other slicer out there. This is the reason I made my preset available for everyone to use. You can still add your little touches to it as per your machine, but if you want a perfect print without wasting a bunch of filament it’s everyone’s go to.

  • Pretty much nailed it! I have nothing to add! Lol

  • I just made a post with some Sunlu pa6-cf. Make sure and dry it good as in like 80-90c for 24-48hrs. Use my settings and I changed my flow rate to 1.1 I have also found that it like the temp closer to 280c vs 300c which will be perfect for your printer. What nozzle size are you going to be using? I ask this because I did run into a few clogs with a .4 nozzle so I switched and used a .6 nozzle with my all my line widths set to .5 and a .12 layer height.

  • I personally hardly ever anneal anything anymore. Sometimes I will anneal small functional parts, but more than none I just allow them to absorb moisture so that they get their elasticity. I have done both ways on FTN’s and they stand up very similarly. You will be fine by not annealing a FTN.

  • This print was with cheap Sunlu PA6-CF and it still turned out great with my settings and a .6 nozzle.

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com

    If you are using my settings and want to try using a .6 nozzle instead of the .4 in my settings.

    Only things you will need to change is your line width. I have finally tried a .6 nozzle for those of you asking if my settings will work for it. I set all of my line widths to .5 and I run the layer height at .12 or .15 depending on how detailed you want to get. That’s the only things you will need to change in my settings in order to get a great print with a .6 nozzle.

  • Hell yeah brother!!!!

  • Me

  • I have them lol! Pm me your email and I’ll send them to you

  • Damn it man lmfao!!!! It worked!! I’ve been running it in Fahrenheit for almost 2 years thinking it didn’t have Celsius lol. You tha man!!

  • I don’t use anything other than a dehydrator with a PID. So long as you don’t fluctuate a lot in temp and you allow it to heat slowly to begin with and cool slowly you’ll be fine without salt or sand or anything

  • Show Off Your Builds @forum.guncadindex.com
    300blkFDE

    Alright guys, let’s get this place popping! Now that Fosscadtoo is gonna we’re going to keep seeing this time after time.

    I’m here to stay after my personal ban due to the guy that got Fosscad banned. I would love to see the community grow in here. It would be nice if we could change the format inside here to reflect more of a reddit style. I believe that’s why some are not using this forum. I’m not too savvy on what we would need to do, however I’m sure there are some guys here that are.

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    300blkFDE

    Has anyone got a Kabuto Turd to run on a deAR22?

    If so which version did you use? I printed the one that says for CMMG but when I close the upper and try to rack it back it’s like it’s in a bind and doesn’t allow the bolt to come all the way back. I really want to try the turd, so if anyone has any experience in this same setup please help.

  • Help & Support @forum.guncadindex.com
    300blkFDE

    deAR22 SS Problems, Please help

    So when I run the SS Manually it doesn't release the hammer when the upper is on, but if I have the upper off it releases. So what's happening is when the upper is on and I fire a round it resets the trigger and if I release the trigger and pull it again it will then allow for the hammer to drop. It's like the trip isn't pushing the SS lever far enough forward to allow the trigger to depress and drop the hammer. Have any of you ran into this or know what's going on? The SS works perfect in my AR's and in my DB alloy so I know that the trigger is cut right

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    300blkFDE

    deAR22 SS problems please help

    So when I run the SS Manually it doesn't release the hammer when the upper is on, but if I have the upper off it releases. So what's happening is when the upper is on and I fire a round it resets the trigger and if I release the trigger and pull it again it will then allow for the hammer to drop. It's like the trip isn't pushing the SS lever far enough forward to allow the trigger to depress and drop the hammer. Have any of you ran into this or know what's going on? The SS works perfect in my AR's and in my DB alloy so I know that the trigger is cut right

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    300blkFDE

    Hey Hey Hey guys, Im Back!!!

    Im also on Reddit, but you can't mention my previous username or I may get Banned again lol. I had to use a whole different device and VPN in order to not get Banned instantly.