Originally posted by u/Ok-Blood8662 at 2025-06-30T21:50:55Z

Reddit permalink

Was hoping I got good enough layer adhesion here, and I may have, but cracks formed at the pin holes.

Fortunately did not have this happen while firing. I noticed the cracks when inspecting the gun at my desk, flexed it, and it completely snapped.

Figured I would share as an example to others. Filament choice is super important in 3D2A. Be careful.

img1

Source: https://i.redd.it/cm8nb5w9y4af1.jpeg

img2

Source: https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/Hvop_ukpbveaGUcW1rK6eqQQ2dwiHHpLgQBXvciEnEw.jpg

  • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
    1·
    29 days ago

    u/Somebodysomeone_926 · 2025-06-30 22:59:11 UTC · score 8

    Why did you think it would?
    These are your viable options.

    PLA plus Pa6cf nylon Pa612cf nylon Pa12cf Nylon Pa6gf Nylon Pet-gf (glass filled PET, not the same as petg) Pet-cf

    Ppacf and ppacf are TBD as far as I can tell

    • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
      1·
      29 days ago

      u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 23:02:44 UTC · score 1

      Im aware of the viable options. Ive seen success stories with Asa. Wasn’t equipped for nylon yet so asa was the next best thing in my mind for heat resistance.

      • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
        1·
        29 days ago

        u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:39:56 UTC · score 3

        That’s what I assumed I’m hoping esun pla plus is aight I was gonna make one in fde polymaker pro just in case but it seems to be dialed in. No weird layer shifts or stuff like that (still waiting on my Patmos revelation to be shipped) we will see den haha

        • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
          1·
          29 days ago

          u/Real_men_drive_t34s · 2025-06-30 22:49:05 UTC · score 1

          Oh yeah Esun pla+ is fine. I prefer polymaker since they seem more 2A aligned. But I wouldn’t have an issue loading Esun and printing with it.

          • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
            1·
            29 days ago

            u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 22:58:31 UTC · score 1

            Yeah I really liked the esun black and grey but I got some fde and metallic black I wanna try out after I’m done printing this orca haha. Want to reprint the v2 in fde I feel it would look a lot better lmfao. I just haven’t done enough testing on other brands other then these two to test strength and durability unfortunately

  • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
    1·
    29 days ago

    u/Klutzy_Ear_3897 · 2025-06-30 21:53:07 UTC · score 6

    What kind of asa did you use, have had absolutely no issues with polymaker Asa in any of my builds with rounds through them, make sure you print with absolutely no fans on and heating the chamber prior really helps, looks like it coulda been a layer adhesion issue

    • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
      1·
      29 days ago

      u/RustyShacklefordVR2 · 2025-06-30 21:59:47 UTC · score 9

      That ain’t layer adhesion, all the fissures cross layer lines. And the edges and overhangs definitely look like they were printed with no part cooling.

      ASA just isn’t different enough from ABS to be advisable for frames.

      • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
        1·
        29 days ago

        u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:12:13 UTC · score 3

        My thoughts as well. I did my research and tuned my settings to get the best results with my test prints. Probably just the cheap blend I got.

    • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
      1·
      29 days ago

      u/Ok-Blood8662 · 2025-06-30 22:10:47 UTC · score 1

      Can’t remember what brand specifically. Generic brand for sure. Id have more faith in polymakers blend.

      I preheated my chamber, set my build plate to 100c and print at 270c. All fans off.

  • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
    1·
    29 days ago

    u/K1RBY87 · 2025-06-30 22:01:17 UTC · score 70

    Not that it likely makes a huge difference. But did you ream the holes before driving the pins or did you just send it?

    • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
      1·
      29 days ago

      u/No-Psychology3577 · 2025-06-30 22:07:52 UTC · score 10

      Do you have too, even if you can insert the pins without any trouble  ? I would completely understand reaming, if the holes gave the maker any trouble

      • Noah@fosscad.ioOPMBEnglish
        1·
        29 days ago

        u/K1RBY87 · 2025-06-30 22:57:49 UTC · score 23

        It is generally good practice. holes that are 3D printed rarely are circular, or the correct dimensions. If you force a pin through it will displace the material, but it puts stress along the layer lines which can be the start to a crack.