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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)P
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1
Comments
18
Joined
3 mo. ago

  • Okay that makes me feel better. Thank you

  • So what is your standard procedure?

    Anneal in oven after print and then let sit at room temperature for weeks?

  • No sealant but a whole lot of JB weld. Interesting. Well this shows I definitely need to give it more time to saturate.

    I did see posts on the old fosscad of people boiling their prints. Maybe I’ll try that too.

    Thank you!

  • The two metal steel pieces that lock the muzzle device are wanting to creep out and they almost look bent. It’s slightly cracking at the spot this metal rods touch the PA6. But yes, I am just going to fill it in and hope she holds.

  • That’s a good point. I put it in a mini oven for about 4 hours at 180F after the print and then sealed it up probably 2-3 days after. What’s the right way to do it? Maybe let it naturally reach moisture equilibrium after for longer after the oven anneal?

    Also…when is the yippee ky yay release? I really want to print that

  • Haha I use 300blkFdEs settings on a Bambu too! Gold standard now with just a few tweaks.

    I am assuming you mean mag release. Idk how I feel about a “proprietary” mag release, but I think I’m gonna make this frame. Or maybe I try my hand at extending that front end for a 34. I think it would be super easy cuz you would keep all the geometry as is and just extrude out 3/4” from the end? I’m not great with CAD yet and I have a hard time editing STLs on fusion 360 since they import as mesh.

  • Is the top one a 34 slide? I was going to print this exact frame for my 34 but wish there were more 34-specific frames.

    Excellent print quality man

  • I pulled the plug back and it looks like it might still be somewhat usable. The KAK flash hider is still in place, but the reinforcement high speed steel bars are creeping into the nylon and cracked slightly. Could maybe become a dedicated 22 can I guess.

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com

    FTN.4 Failure

    I have a few questions on the FTN as we get closer to Jan 1. I plan on submitting quite a few form 1s. This is my original form 1 that had a failure after less than 200 rounds. The particular day of failure was very cold and failed after only 2 standard capacity mags back to back not rapid fire. I followed PLAbois guide to a T.

    1. Is the FTN.4 the most solid 3d printed suppressor so far? Best performing?
    2. Best mounting method? I used KAK micro flash hider.
    3. Any other suppressors worth looking into? 5.56 as well as other calibers?

    This failure happened with an 11.5” KAK “suppressor only” barrel. The core is annealed polymaker PA6 and I used a liberal amount of JB Weld.

  • Atlantic had $124.99 kits with barrel. Kicking myself I didn’t get one

  • How can I get in the beta?

  • I had this same issue and haven’t figured it out. I’m thinking of maybe modifying the tab to have the mags sit a hair deeper into the lower. What upper are you using? I’m using the left side charging Masterpiece arms upper.

  • Sooo nice. Wow I wanna print them all. Will these go super safe?

  • I had this issue and could be lever slop / loose tolerance. Try shimming or use a different lever

  • Nice thank you. You saved me $22

  • Thank you for posting this! Picking up some nylon in 3kg. I made a custom dry box for their big ass rolls

  • What thickness and how does it run? There’s so many files out there. I have 5 in my SCS cart. 304, 316, or 4130?

  • I was just about to make a post on this topic but can’t figure out how to post on here.

    My question was OG tx22 vs bigbrrrt? Looks like this is slightly different geometry from both of them. Where is this sailing?