Skip Navigation

InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)F
Posts
3
Comments
29
Joined
1 yr. ago

  • I resell electronics and a lot of related stuff so I have gone through a lot of items over my career. My insight into what breaks and what doesn't comes from seeing hundreds of used items weekly. I've handled many many brands of grinders and refurbished a bunch of them. I have 2 Baratzas I'm selling right now and sold a Hario earlier today. I also sold another Baratza part this week.

    I never claimed the Baratzas don't ever break, but the motors last decades and everything else is cheap and simple on them, they are made to be serviced, which makes them extremely good value. This is why they are a good recommendation for the super cheap price. I know iof no sub $100 grinders that don't have some problem eventually. Think of the price tag. A $60 grinder is dirt cheap.

    Baratza Encores currently cost about $60-75 on eBay on the lower side of the price range That would be a used working machine covered by a money back guarantee. A couple have sold for just $50-55 in the past 90 days.

    I don't dispute some of what you're saying about a commercial grinder like that $1200 Bunn G1, but that grinder only has 7 grind adjustment settings. It's really not comparable to an espresso grinder. The special feature of the Bunn is grinding a pound of coffee in 30 seconds. Like you can't get an espresso shot calibrated with that style of machine. Of course, that's not a home machine and it's not really designed for the purpose of a careful grind size / weight. However, end of the day, that grinder is $475 for a used model. If a Baratza lasts 20 years for $60, is a Bunn 10X as good?

  • What would you recommend that not Baratza for a, sub-$100 grinder that's repairable and maintainable?

    Baratza grinders are not the nicest grinders known, but they do sell every part and you can replace the burrs.

    Like I recently sold a KitchenAid double burr grinder that runs double the price of a Baratza Encore. New burrs are not available and all the parts of the KA are breakable glass and unobtainable for repairs. That to me seems crazy, but the flip side is that a $60 Encore is a screaming deal at that price level, for the features of being 100% repairable.

    Is there a better $60 grinder you're aware of?

    https://www.baratza.com/en-us/landing/product/parts

    Part cost is VERY reasonable and they ship cheap and fast

    As far as I can tell, the top line Baratza models use the same gearbox and motor as the base models

    Baratza will sell you the main circuit board for under $15 and the gear box rebuild for like $10. In my opinion that's admirable. Talking like BIFL ethics, the company obviously wants you to be able to repair any issues, versus being disposable.

    ( Silly question: why do you own a Skerton, and why isn't it broken?)

  • For espresso or drip?

    The only espresso grinders < $100 are probably going to be used or maybe Baratza brand. Baratza does sell many of the replacement parts online, but occasionally the designs get updated and older models can be hard to repair without having to change lots of internals. The models share a lot of their internal designs however and they are quite durable.

    Hario makes some good simple hand grinders that you can get new burrs for. The skerton model can screw onto a mason / ball wide mouth jar if you break the glass canister.

    There are plenty of good higher end grinders. I had a Rancilio Rocky that I got second hand, made in 1985, used multiple times daily for years and only needed a small repair to the Doser lever spring. I changed the burrs a couple of times and gave it to a friend and it's still running perfectly as a 40 year old workhorse. Not fancy but quite solid. The only real weak point is some plastics on the case, but they sell replacements. The designs have been fairly maintained over the years and parts are available. I'm pretty sure that if I bought a new Rocky it would outlive me today.

  • https://youtu.be/hCEJDU9_p4Q

    A youtuber takes a look at the water levels on the Colorado river / Lake Powell in winter 2026.

    The YouTube comments are about the lack of snow throughout the american west.

  • The TKWide line are very nice! The lids for these go inside internal threads on the flask, they are a completely proprietary standard that cannot be swapped to other brands.

  • Klean Kanteen or Hydroflask. You'd be looking at a vacuum insulated double wall tumbler flask. They have multiple volume sizes that share features and lids. (Eg, 12/16/20/32/42 oz). The latest generation of either brand do not leak.

    Their replacement parts are pretty spendy on their .com web store (shipping is brutal) but people sell them retail or used on eBay.

    The 2-1/4" wide-mouth lids from Nalgene, MSR, Klean Kanteen, Hydro flask and Camelbak usually share the same thread pitch but don't always seal.correctly on the top gasket in all combinations. However there is some brand interoperability but its something you need to test for leaks.

    I recommend a silicone sleeve bumper on the bottom to prevent dents.

    Another good brand is Yeti but they use all proprietary lids and standards. I think the wall thickness on Yeti is possibly the highest making them super durable. The straw lid is called the Rambler. These are pretty expensive.

    If you want it to last a long time, the best finish is always just the brushed polished bare stainless with no paint to scratch or chip. Otherwise start adding stickers over chips and scratches.

  • Blender

    Jump
  • I've fixed a bunch of things but not that specifically.

    I'd try spraying the speed control knob with contact cleaner because it sounds like that might be the problem. (Available at any auto parts store in a spray can). Or use 99% isopropyl if you have that available.

    If cleaning the connection doesn't work, you can then replace the whole assembly, the new part runs about $20 incl shipping if you're in the USA.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/326749491891

    That's a non genuine 3rd party Comparible part. The genuine one is on Amazon for about $60 but I am not sure if it's 3X as good. Your call.

    If I'm not mistaken it would be the 2-wire version but ou might want to look inside and confirm before ordering.

    (I'm guessing here, but what I think is happening is that the potentiometer is so dirty it's like a crackily speaker or volume knob that is sometimes cutting out completely. I suspect it's wired so that it goes full speed and the knob steps down the speed. So when it cuts out at the knob the motor defaults to full blast.)

  • Blender

    Jump
  • I used to buy about 800 pounds of salvage electronics a week which I would then resell. I've seen and evaluated many brands of used older electronics.

    For a blender, I'd recommend a Vita-Mix (5200 / 5500), then KitchenAid. Third tier would include Breville or Ninja.

    We use a Vitamix 5500 here. A few benefits of the simple design are that the lid has no moving pieces or hinges or locking mechanisms... It's just a flexible rubber dome that doesn't crack if you drop it. The blender jug has the blender blade and a very large sealed bearing. You can swap the entire item out as a future service. The motor bases are extremely high quality. I can't recall seeing any that were ever broken. They seem to rely on solid state electronics and big mechanical switches nstead of fancy displays and microcontrollers and LEDs -- most common points of failure on the competitor's products.

    The biggest issue with most blenders is that they are overcomplicated. For example, a ninja blender has detection switches to ensure that the jug is correctly locked to the base and the lid is locked to the jug. If a tab or pin breaks it disables the blender. They could have just designed the shape so that you can't have the jug halfway installed instead of adding electronics that fail when they get wet.

    My only warning for Vitamix is to avoid the white color motor base. That color will take on UV damage and turn obviously yellow over the years.

    I would not hesitate to buy a well used working Vitamix in the used market. I have seen many units from the mid 1990s and up that run like new.