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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)L
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7
Joined
2 mo. ago

  • Once this is figured out it will be revolution in the world of homemade guns. Designs will quickly replace all ruger parts with Glock gen3 alternatives by modifying the flat slightly to fit the geometry. I'm following and waiting for this to be solved with excitement.

    Did you bend the top one (I'm judging by the straight rails), if so what are the issues with it ? I was under impression that that rails need to be bent last and it should be the easiest part (maybe I'm wrong).

  • For the OG one you may also need a tap to tap the grip screw threads and a screw for handguard. Other than what other people already said I think that's it.

  • Update: Man thanks for the picture since it really gave the perspective of how things should look like. Maybe this will help someone. I measured my upper and it measured 191mm while the model was 194mm. All X/Y dimensions were perfect otherwise. Which indicated to me that it's either thermal shrinkage in Z direction or wrong steps/layer. Anyways I just scaled my model in Z by 1% (making it 101% and 196mm) and it came out perfectly to 194mm. Fits nicely with close to 0 gap in the back (cannot see light), all holes align and threads work with a barrel nut.

  • That looks incredible. I need to clean more support then. Merry Christmas!

  • Looks amazing man, very cool idea for muzzle device :D. I just finished my print of the DEAR22 in Sunlu PA6-CF with 300BLKFDE settings too on a Q2. One question to you since I haven't finished assembly fully yet, does your upper and lower have gap in the back near the 1913 rail ?

  • Thank you. That was my gist as well, I think Hoffman test proves a simple fact "hotter not necessarily better" anybody stating otherwise needs to prove with tensile test print in Z direction.

  • General Discussion @forum.guncadindex.com
    Lazycat

    PA6-CF Printing temperature

    I was wondering if there is consensus in the community on the PA6-CF printing temperature. Manufacturers seem to cap at 300 (280-300 range). There is a user on other resource advocating for 320c for printing Fiberon PA6-CF citing good layer adhesion. How much merit does this theory actually have ?

    Is there a limit after which temperature become detrimental ? Doing some quick searches looks like injection molding of nylon is using standard 280-300c temperature so that leads me to believe that printing hot may not be a good idea unless we do actual layer adhesion tests and not just "it looks better"