Are you new to 3d printing or just 3d2a? You want to make sure you understand your printer really well with cheaper filaments like PLA+ before going to the expensive stuff like pa6cf.

This CF sleeve might work better than the casting tape BTW. https://sollercompositesllc.com/product/2-0in-6k-carbon-med-sleeves-sold-by-the-running-ft/

I was just going to buy the heat set tags from MAF since they’ll engrave it for you. For the FTN silencers I was going to epoxy the tag on the last layer of CF wrap. If you want to put a serial number on new lowers to make a SBR, you can add this as a cutout in the slicer and then just heat set it after it’s printed out. https://guncadindex.com/detail/MAFSerialPlateCut:a

This website also states that the SA, FA, and Burst triggers all use the same spring. Is the spring binding up on the trigger or the disconnector? Whichever side seems to be binding could probably just be polished up a bit to reduce the drag on the spring.

Looks like this place sells the individual parts you’re looking for. https://www.bayougunrunner.com/M16-M4-3RND-BURST-TRIGGER_p_1059.html

I haven’t seen anyone who has tried it yet. It would definitely require some modification to the trigger to get the SS to work. The CM-1 might work better with the TURD than a SS. You could always print out the CM-1 trigger and the SS cam or the TURD and see how they interact together. They’re all pretty small prints so it wouldn’t take very long to test.

If you’re on desktop and want it to look more like Reddit, change the view to Cozy.

Looks great! 300BLK is definitely a caliber that can be reloaded a lot cheaper than buying factory ammo, especially subs.

It’s in the build tutorial. Do you want a Carbine or Rifle buffer tube? Does your upper have a Forward Assist? Will you use anti-walk pins for your FCG? The UBAR-X has an integrated grip and the regular allows you to add your own grip.

Thank you for following up about this!

The bolt has to weigh a lot more for those other calibers in a direct blowback firearm. In 9mm the bolt weighs about 1.7lbs. For 45acp and 10mm the bolt would need to be 2.3 and 2.8lbs respectively. It can be done but would require a lot of work to change calibers.

Edit: Source: https://10mmautocombat.wordpress.com/blowback-bolt-calculations/

https://www.reddit.com/r/FOSSCADtoo/comments/1p1mntl/comment/npr2eby/

For full transparency, here is the comment in question that got me banned.

There are some frames but I don’t think a PDW style chassis has been released yet. I think Chairmanwon was working on a homemade FCU using a SCS flat and bending it with printed bending jigs. If he gets that to work then I see a lot of future development with the RXM.

Check out the Everything Black Powder youtube channel. He makes his own black powder and tries a bunch of different ratios and components. He uses different carbon sources. He also tries ammonium nitrate and sodium nitrate instead of the usual potassium nitrate. Potassium nitrate is the safest and easiest to use. The other two are much more hydrophilic which can ruin the powder, in addition to being much more hazardous to have around. https://www.youtube.com/@Everythingblackpowder

Yeah, I’m sure if the receiver was printed it would cut the noise down quite a lot.

FTN4 is the best printed suppressor out there. There are options for 22lr, 556, 308, 9mm, and 45. They need reinforcement, either an aluminum tube or a carbon fiber sleeve. With suppressors tax dropping next year, someone may come up with a better design eventually. However, the FTN series of suppressors is quite robust and can handle FA rates of fire, especially when it’s made of PA6-CF or even better, PPA-CF.

How much of the noise is from port pop and muzzle blast versus the action sounds? The bolt slamming home on my 10/22 is obnoxiously loud and I wear earplugs even while shooting that suppressed. I tend to prefer shooting repeater and single shot firearms suppressed. Don’t get me wrong, I’ll suppress every firearm I can, but repeaters are a lot quieter than self loaders.

Modelo Polylactico can be built with only off the shelf parts. Decker 380 only requires a barrel liner and it’s possible to ECM your own barrel for it if you’re motivated enough. https://guncadindex.com/detail/Modelo-Polytactico:c https://guncadindex.com/detail/Decker-380-3.0.2-Advanced-Mods:7

If you want to build a Glock clone, you may be interested in the Invader PDW or the Mando Corser. They’re both PDW style Glocks that give you more versatility than a standard Glock lower. If, however, you go with something a bit bigger than a handgun you open up a lot more possibilities. The Decker 380 is a solid gun that can be built for ~$120 and is primarily printed. The PWC-9 or the DB Alloy are also really good builds that use a MAC-11 upper. The CZAR is a great little build. It just takes a VZ61 parts kit, barrel (if it’s not in the kit) and an AR trigger.